Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Craig Fry, Alan Roberts, Dave Evans, Margy Floyd & Kelly Carrignan, February 1985
Page Views: 7,051 total · 35/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Dec 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Fun bouldery moves up steep blocky terrain lead to some fun wide angle stemming (the crux) and then to a finish in a hero's handcrack. A very fun route with cool moves. Despite how steep it is it isn't terribly pumpy as there are numerous no hands rests.


Small nuts and cams protect the first half with the second half and the anchor requiring hand sized gear.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The route is pretty good, despite a few questionable holds down in the redish area of the climb prior to the crux. The crux sequence pro is a large cam (3.5") overhead to make a move and then a 2.5" piece which you pass just as you step left out ofthe crux sequence. These will seem a little lower than they are due to the long slings you will use to save rope drag.

Don't presume that this is a great route for the second to push their grade on- the belay is not really comforatable and also the route overhangs anough to call it "Dangling 5.9 Master." To avoid dangling, it is better to be a 5.10 master. It might be hard to protect the swing from the crux for the second and leave them in a tough spot to get back on the route.

The belay up top is a single bolt plus a good 3" piece. If you ask me, one hex or one cam will do top back up the bolt. Note that descent is to scramble up and 30 feet over to the climber's right side to reach an anchor where a single 60 M rope will just reach the ground. A 70M rope leaves plenty to spare.

5.10a seems about right grade J-tree. Jan 6, 2003
Josh Beck
Josh Beck  
The mid point of the climb / stemming crux stuff is can be protected pretty well with 1.5" gear, in a horizontal then above in a tight hand crack in the corner. There is also a horn you could sling and hang a truck from.

It is also easy to walk off from this climb, up and right 20' then back following the slabs gently down, then down a 4' step into a gully, then left down the gully and around to your packs at the bottom.

I agree this is not a great climb for a fledgling 5.10 climber, particularly on lead :) Jan 7, 2003
Steven Powers
Steven Powers  
to be totally honest i didnt enjoy this route as much as i thought i was going to, im not sure if it deserves all those stars. it wasnt a bad route but not an absolute classic one star for the climb and another for the location. Oct 6, 2003
Gear beta: a #3.5 or 4 Camalot is a good idea for protecting the stemming crux. Someone mentioned that you can protect it with a 1.5" piece, but in order to get that piece in, you've already had to get high in the stem, so I don't think that is good beta. My rack would be: a #4, two or three #3s, two #2s, a 0.75, a 0.5, a couple of nuts down low, and long slings for down low and tying off a couple of horns.

Felt harder than 10a to me, even for JTree, and even on toprope. I thought it was harder than "Caught Inside on a Big Set" or whatever that 10b to the right is.

Fun route. It's the route I keep thinking about from my last trip to J Tree.

Jan 3, 2006
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
interestingly, i found this to be tougher than the other two .10b's in the grotto- even thought i was on TR at the time. it's good fun, though, and the crux is even more so.

btw- i didnt notice a bolt up top, but again, i wasn't the leader. Oct 22, 2006
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Great route; worth the hike. Apr 7, 2008
PumpkinEater   Sacramento
More unique than a lot of climbs in JT. If you're clever you get 3 (!) no hands rests. Find them and you are....a dangling woo-li master. Hint: one involves sitting on a ledge facing out! coooool. May 24, 2010
Route was running water around Thanksgiving 2009--not sure if that's common or not, but the rock looks like it sees a lot of water (stained). Jan 5, 2011
Jebus H Bomz
Sacramento, CA
Jebus H Bomz   Sacramento, CA
Pretty unique climbing for J Tree. Cool, overhanging, stemmy moves that could indeed be morphed into a martial arts sequence. Combined with the hero jam crack finish, Woo Li leaves little left to be desired. Three stars for the route and one more for the location. Jan 5, 2012
Chad N
Central California
Chad N   Central California
good route. this cool area is worth the approach. leading 10s solid and you can get a few good ones in. Feb 11, 2013
Rob Baumgartner   Niwot
Whatever you do, DO NOT climb the awful chimney out right like my partner did! It's basically 25' of beached-whaling over super-sketchy pro. Oct 13, 2016
Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest
Yannick Gingras   On the road, mostly Southwest
Fun! Put your thinking cap on because this route requires creativity and balance. Dec 19, 2018
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
The premier route at the Grotto. So much fun! 5 stars out of 4. Dec 20, 2018