All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland South > Wonderland Valley > East Wonderland V… > Freak Brothers Dome
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle
Avg: 3.8 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||(P1): Randy Vogel, Charles Cole, 82 (P2): Phil Broscovak, Vogel, Jim Angione, 11/78 (P3): Vogel, Dave Houser, Maria Cranor (P4) Broscovak, Bartlett|
|Page Views:||6,919 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||Randy on Dec 31, 2002|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis 4 pitch route provides an excellent excercise in traversing along a thin dike that runs about mid-height through all three sections of the formation. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are scarier for the second than the leader. The route was put up over a number of years, with the 1st pitch being the last one established.
Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start off a small ledge near the left end of the west face, (near a small Yucca). Tricky and thin face moves up and left (5.10b), past a bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts and a horizontal (medium cam) to a bolt belay on the left end of the dike. (You can traverse in from the left onto the dike to the belay -- avoiding 1st pitch -- as was done on the first ascent of the 2nd pitch).
Pitch 2: (5.9++; Scary for 2nd) Follow the dike right (3 bolts) all the way to a 2 bolt belay in a recess. Second should avoid falling after unclipping from the bolt protecting the crux -- it would be a long swing. From the end of this pitch, you can escape up easy cracks (5.6).
Pitch 3: (5.9) Keep heading right (above dike), then downclimb onto the dike, which at this point actually forms the lip of a very large roof. Well protected (but airy) moves lead to another recess and bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: (5.7) A last traversing pitch, past a single bolt (and optional gear) leads to easy climbing up to a large ledge. Scramble down right to the ground.