Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: (P1): Randy Vogel, Charles Cole, 82 (P2): Phil Broscovak, Vogel, Jim Angione, 11/78 (P3): Vogel, Dave Houser, Maria Cranor (P4) Broscovak, Bartlett
Page Views: 7,623 total · 37/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This 4 pitch route provides an excellent excercise in traversing along a thin dike that runs about mid-height through all three sections of the formation. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are scarier for the second than the leader. The route was put up over a number of years, with the 1st pitch being the last one established.

Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start off a small ledge near the left end of the west face, (near a small Yucca). Tricky and thin face moves up and left (5.10b), past a bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts and a horizontal (medium cam) to a bolt belay on the left end of the dike. (You can traverse in from the left onto the dike to the belay -- avoiding 1st pitch -- as was done on the first ascent of the 2nd pitch).

Pitch 2: (5.9++; Scary for 2nd) Follow the dike right (3 bolts) all the way to a 2 bolt belay in a recess. Second should avoid falling after unclipping from the bolt protecting the crux -- it would be a long swing. From the end of this pitch, you can escape up easy cracks (5.6).

Pitch 3: (5.9) Keep heading right (above dike), then downclimb onto the dike, which at this point actually forms the lip of a very large roof. Well protected (but airy) moves lead to another recess and bolt anchor.

Pitch 4: (5.7) A last traversing pitch, past a single bolt (and optional gear) leads to easy climbing up to a large ledge. Scramble down right to the ground.

Protection

1st Pitch: 4 bolts, medium cams; bolt anchor; 2nd Pitch: 3 bolts, bolt anchor; 3rd Pitch: 6 bolts, bolt anchor; 4th Pitch: 1 bolt, medium cams for belay

Photos