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Breakfast of Champions
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.5 from 303
votes
Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Boogie Woogie Blues, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breakfast of Pigs TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crimping Lessons S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mamunia S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Middle Age Crazy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Middle Age Savage T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Silver and Gold TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Solid Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Idol T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.03866, -116.14721 |
| FA: | Ed Ehrenfeld, Eve Uiga and Herb Laeger, December 1977 |
| Page Views: | 20,599 total · 70/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 3, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This excellent route, one of the few at the Astro Domes that isn't all face climbing, is located on the far right side of the South Astro Dome just right of Such a Savage (5.11a R). Two vastly different and thoroughly enjoyable pitches will get you high above the desert floor, providing far reaching views of the Wonderland Of Rocks and beyond.
P1) Climb a short hand/fist crack to a small ledge and then jam the somewhat awkward hand crack above (5.8) until plentiful face holds appear and lead you up and right along a ramp system to a bolted anchor in a large hueco. P2) Stem your way out of the belay hueco and then continue up and right to the second bolt. Climb out left and up along a faint dike system and then wander up to the last bolt where a quick bit of friction gains the top and a two bolt anchor/rap. Descend the route in two single rope raps with a 60 meter rope.
- Originally a single bolt protected the second pitch (the middle one) which made it very runout, but the FA party agreed to allow a few extra bolts to be added to make it enjoyable for all (3 bolts as of Dec. '10).
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