Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Ehrenfeld, Eve Uiga and Herb Laeger, December 1977
Page Views: 10,934 total, 58/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


116 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This excellent route, one of the few at the Astro Domes that isn't all face climbing, is located on the far right side of the South Astro Dome just right of Such a Savage (5.11a R). Two vastly different and thoroughly enjoyable pitches will get you high above the desert floor, providing far reaching views of the Wonderland Of Rocks and beyond.

P1) Climb a short hand/fist crack to a small ledge and then jam the somewhat awkward hand crack above (5.8) until plentiful face holds appear and lead you up and right along a ramp system to a bolted anchor in a large hueco. P2) Stem your way out of the belay hueco and then continue up and right to the second bolt. Climb out left and up along a faint dike system and then wander up to the last bolt where a quick bit of friction gains the top and a two bolt anchor/rap. Descend the route in two single rope raps with a 60 meter rope.

Originally a single bolt protected the second pitch (the middle one) which made it very runout, but the FA party agreed to allow a few extra bolts to be added to make it enjoyable for all (3 bolts as of Dec. '10).

Protection

Pro to 3" for the first pitch and 3 bolts for the second pitch. The belays are bolted and all bolts are 3/8".

Hobo Greg
My Van
Hobo Greg   My Van
Wow what a great climb! Amazing cack followed by runout but fun slab moves. Beautiful location away from the crowds, what more do you want?!? GO CLIMB THIS! Mar 5, 2017
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8+
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8+
This route is terrific! It has a fun hand crack, adventurous slab climbing, and one of the best views in the park from the top.

It's best to be comfortable on J-Tree slab before trying to lead P2. It's a tad harder than 'walk on the wild side' and similar to the topout on 'the flake'. Nov 1, 2016
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Very good climb. Hardest moves were getting off the deck and placing gear to protect it. It is a little awkward. P2 is almost run-out, but not quite. The most dangerous part of this climb is between the P1 belay anchors and the first bolt on P2. If you peel, you're probably going to hit your belayer. Feb 29, 2012
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
A must in J Tree for the grade. Jammin' crack, runout slab, great view, adventurous descent (Through the gully between the north and south domes)... everything you could ever want. Feb 21, 2012
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Nice varied climbing with hand and finger crack to "improbable" slab climbing on the 2nd pitch.

Not really "R" on the second pitch as the moves are pretty solid with bolt at your waist during the crux (2nd bolt I think). Jan 20, 2012
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
very nice climb that gets u nice and high. Best best be solid at leading 5.9 or so for this one as some sections are a bit stout and the second pitch is a bit scary and quite run out. (can hardly imagine it when it only had one bolt)! i would vote for at for 5.8+ for first pitch, 5.9R for second pitch (which even though bolted the bolts are a bit hard to spot and involve some weaving around)/ Dec 19, 2011
As a shorter (and relatively new) leader with smaller hands, I found the fist section just off the ground very challenging. Both the jams and the feet were extremely awkward leaving it difficult for me to get protection in. I ended up falling to the ground (happily "only" 6 feet or so) trying to get pro in to it. If I was a more confident leader or this section was further off the ground, I would have just climbed through it and placed gear in the easy hand crack above. If my hands were a bit larger, this probably wouldn't have been an issue, either.

Rest of the route was great fun. Loved the second pitch!

P.S. Definitely can be a bit cold on a windy day Apr 16, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8
Now that extra bolts have been added I might go back and repeat this one! Dec 30, 2009
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
After just finishing Figures On A Landscape, this was a relief and so much fun. The second pitch is quite run out and exciting! Jun 8, 2006
tony grice
  5.9
tony grice  
  5.9
Super route, great fun in shade most of the day. Mar 1, 2006
Joseph Lee  
 
This is a great climb. Two completely different pitches that serve up JTree climbing at it's best. Starts with a sweet hand crack to face climbing with nice incuts. The upper pitch involves textbook runout slab climbing. And then enjoy panoramic views from the top of the south Astrodome. Oct 10, 2004
RTM
RTM  
The second pitch of this climb is a hella good time. Feb 27, 2003