Description

Durango is a nice, mid-sized town in southwestern Colorado with a variety of local rock climbing. No single crag is a destination in itself, but each of them has some gems, and together make for a nice local climbing scene.

For a good pump on some steep limestone, check out the sport climbing at the Golf Wall or Cascade Canyon. If you think trad is rad, make a trip to East Animas and don't miss the Watch Crystal. It is one of the finest pieces of stone in the area. For bouldering, check out Turtle Lake, Sailing Hawks or any of the many other areas. X-Rock is right at the north end of town and has a nice little selection of routes that are easily top-roped. If you prefer something a little more obscure, try exploring the Hermosa cliffs. Lemon Reservoir should not be missed either. It is has quality sport, gear, or mixed lines. For a more backcountry/alpine climbing experience, look into the Pine River or Vallecito areas.

Your best bet for information on climbing around the area is to check out a copy of Durango Sandstone (new edition came out in 2014) and Durango Bouldering (currently out of print) at any of the climbing shops in town. Both are well done and written by local climbers/authors.

Pine Needle Mountaineering
Backcountry Experience
Gardenswartz Outdoors

Spring and Fall are the best seasons to rock climb around Durango. The temperatures are typically mild during these times. Summers can get hot, especially on sunny walls, but it can be pleasant to climb in the shade or during the morning. Winter typically brings colder weather and snow, but during periods of dry weather in the sun it can be nice.

Getting There

Take US Hwy 550 if coming from the north or south, or take US Hwy 160 if coming from the east or west.

Closed areas

Everything to the right of the East Animas designated climbing trail is private property and is apparently closed to climbing.

734 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Durango

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 46
Bird Hole Right
Boulder
V5 6C
 53
Three Finger Pocket/Petrified Prow
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 79
Yellow Pages
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Apple Cider
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 62
Byrd's Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cen…
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 66
One Summer's Eve
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 78
Simians to the Sun
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Vertical Alluvium
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 71
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitte…
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 52
Apes of Wrath
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Durangutan
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 52
Gold Wall
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 56
Watch Crystal Crack
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bird Hole Right Turtle Lake > Bouldering > Big E Block
 46
V3 6A Boulder
Three Finger Pocket/Petrifi… Sailing Hawks > Petrified Boulder
 53
V5 6C Boulder
Yellow Pages E Animas > Watch Crystal
 79
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Apple Cider E Animas > Apple Cider
 64
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Byrd's Classic E Animas > Byrd's
 62
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseud… E Animas > Jabba Buttress
 93
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
One Summer's Eve Cascade Canyon > Garden of Eden Wall (…
 66
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Simians to the Sun E Animas > Watch Crystal
 78
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Vertical Alluvium Lemon Reservoir > W Side
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (sub… E Animas > Jabba Buttress
 71
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Apes of Wrath E Animas > Watch Crystal
 52
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Chucky Bill Lemon Reservoir > W Side
 48
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Durangutan E Animas > Watch Crystal
 41
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Gold Wall X Rock > Gold Wall
 52
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, TR
Watch Crystal Crack E Animas > Watch Crystal
 56
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Durango »

Weather Averages

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Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kevin Sainio
Durango, CO
Kevin Sainio   Durango, CO
The new edition of Durango Sandstone has been released! It is available at Backcountry Experience in Durango. Look for the Crow on the corner of 12th and Camino del Rio. Sep 17, 2008
IanA
Durango, CO
IanA   Durango, CO
Here is a link to a good video representing the Bouldering in Durango. youtube.com/watch?v=XKuqtoz… Aug 7, 2009
IanA
Durango, CO
IanA   Durango, CO
Durango Bouldering Guide in stores now. Check it out! Aug 18, 2009
Laura Howey
Gilbert, AZ
Laura Howey   Gilbert, AZ
Went to Durango High School and coming back July 30th - August 6th. Is anyone interested in climbing a couple of those days?

Staying at Cascade Lodge north of Purgatory. Have 60m rope, 12 draws, 2 personal anchors, harness, shoes, ATC device. I've been leading and TR 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 and am trying to tackle 5.10's before I come. Been climbing since mid-March and am addicted!!!

Laura
laurahowey@me.com
480-628-1280 May 18, 2010
.Miles
Durango, co
.Miles   Durango, co
I'm on vacation from SF for the summer. I'll be in Durango till October and would like to find some folks to climb with. I've got gear and a descent amount of skill. I know there are a lot of good pitches here and I'd love to play on them. I have a house in La Plata Canyon. I'm at lorenmiles@yahoo.com. Jun 16, 2010
Peter12345
Bay Area, CA
Peter12345   Bay Area, CA
Hi, I just moved to Durango from California and I am looking for local climbers to climb around Durango. I am also interested in climbing trips to Ouray, Telluride, Indian Creek, anything good in the area. Sep 8, 2010
Hey, guys! I'm new to the area: live in Dolores work in Cortez for Osprey, and have yet to find climbing partners. If interested, please contact me via email (ggam167@hotmail.com) or phone (704-576-4313). Thanks! Nov 14, 2010
Has anyone ventured up to and climbed the two ice flows that have formed on the Falls Creek wall? From 550 they look pretty good. Jan 29, 2011
In regards to the video..."Receptionist Stand - V9"? As a long time Flagstaff local, I know that's preposterous. Removing 2/3 of a V10 does not a V9 make. Dec 20, 2011
eggman
Durango, co
eggman   Durango, co
I may or may not have left my green backpack with gear in it at the East A. parking lot. Anyone? Anyone? Jul 29, 2014
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
Armin climber
Westminster, CO
Armin climber   Westminster, CO
Looking for a partner today. Have all gear, 15+ yrs exp. I have not climbed in Durango and was thinking of checking out the Golf Wall today if I can find a partner. Lead mid-5.11s at Rifle. Call or txt 970-376-8984, cheers -a Oct 14, 2014
Ian Altman   CO
Some jackass chipped two of the jugs on the "front rock" at the Turtle Lake Bouldering area. It's unfathomable why someone would do such a thing...and either a random act of vandalism or a climber with a distorted personality. Please stop whoever you are, and let's keep an eye out folks!..the holds were clearly knocked off with a pick strike. Nov 13, 2015
Phil Pullshard
Fort Collins, Colorado
Phil Pullshard   Fort Collins, Colorado
New to the area, is there any offwidth climbing around? I know some bouldering in Sailing Hawks with offwidth, but anything more sustained trying to break out some 5s and 6s? Dec 17, 2015
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
Head up to East A. if the snow melts. There's a couple of pitches of awful-width in Jabba's Buttress, and some offwidth in and past Apple Cider. The Right X also has some a short OW section, but it's kinda short. Dec 19, 2015
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
Japhy, check out Gorilla Crack, Telephone Booth, Double Barrel and the Bear at East A. Dec 20, 2015
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
If anyone is interested, I have started mapping out some of the climbing areas I frequent on google maps, just as a personal project for fun. I figured I would share it and if others are interested, they can add additional crags. I've made it public so that anyone can edit and add places to the map if they're interested. Please add a new layer for each new area to keep it organized Here's a link:

google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=… Mar 2, 2016
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
Hey all,

Will be in the area June 3rd through 5th. If anybody is looking to get out and climb, please let me know, whatever kind doesn't matter. Pm me on here, maybe we can meet up. I guess I onsight around mid-5.11 if that matters at all.

Also would be nice to know if there are good areas for TR soloing and bouldering in case I can't find somebody to climb with. Thanks in advance.

Clay May 25, 2016
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
Check out X-Rock or Lemon Reservoir for TR soloing with good access. Turtle Lake (bouldering) will be easier than Sailing Hawks for non-locals to navigate. I doubt I'll be able to climb by then (injury), but I could show you around and belay. My phone is (423) 504-7813. May 27, 2016
Clayton,

Valecitto has great top roping, epic views, and few people. It's where I usually head if I'm soloing. I live right between Lemon and Valecitto. If you're heading out my way and need a partner, hmu. I'm hit or miss around 5.10 but good for a catch, and I know the area well. Happy to show you around (970)-779-9979. May 30, 2016
James Tilton
Cortez, CO
James Tilton   Cortez, CO
Hey all, I recently relocated to the area (living and working in Cortez) and am desperately in need of some fellow rock climbers. Please e-mail me if interested in going climbing or bouldering outside. I am totally willing to drive to Durango or head out to Indian Creek or Moab area to do some climbing. Email: wjtilton1989@gmail.com. Aug 18, 2016
I left my phone at X Rock right at the base of Monkey Hang. I went back, but I didn't see it there, so I was reaching out if anyone did grab it up there. Thank you all. Sep 11, 2016
Anyone going to Red Rocks this month? I'm trying to find a ride back towards the end. 303 810 0940. Nov 4, 2016
Dion Obermeyer
Springdale
Dion Obermeyer   Springdale
I just moved to Durango today and am looking for some partners. Give me a call (505 412 5131) if you don't mind showing someone around and need a partner. I'm almost always available. Dec 6, 2016
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
youtu.be/auSGLv50wE8 Dec 29, 2016
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Climbers of the area have an opportunity to weigh in on what they'd like to see developed at a multi-event center within an 800-acre grassy area to be developed as Durango Mesa Park.

This means Durango has a chance to bring climbing competitions of every level and category to our beloved abode, (THINK about this: on August 3, 2016, the IOC voted to add sport climbing and skateboarding for the 2020 Summer Olympics),
And a permanent public and free venue for us to practice our craft in an indoor facility, or at least well-covered.

In terms of facilities and who has access to what and when, notice how fortunate you are if you enjoy one or more of the following Down by the River/A.R.T.: kayaking, skateboarding, BMXing, hiking, mountain biking trails, baseball, soccer, tennis, skiing, ice skating/hockey, rec center swim-pool/diving, etc., so, pipe up! and say what you think, or whatever . . . . laplatamesaplan.com/

Berg Heil,
Apr 20, 2017
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
If you're developing a worthwhile route in the Durango area, please PM me. I'd be happy to buy you some Mussy hooks to use on the anchor. Jul 18, 2017
Does anyone have any information about the unmarked crag about 2mi North of the Falls Creek Cliffs and just to the East of CR 205? My wife and I went up there to explore while we were hiking Falls Creek Loop trail and found 20+ bolted routes. We were surprised not to see it marked on Mountain Project. I've also looked through a couple local guidebooks and have found no mention of the wall. It is a relatively prominent feature in that valley. See the photo.
Jul 30, 2017
Hi, my name is Craig. I just moved to the area and looking to meet friends for climbing hiking skiing and camping. I have my own gear.
(970)389-8399
Get in touch if you're looking for someone to climb with or looking to make your party an even number. Sep 7, 2017
Jasmine Hennessy
Berkeley, CA
Jasmine Hennessy   Berkeley, CA
Hi there! Will be visiting Durango next week 12/18-12/23 and am looking to borrow a crashpad during part of my stay. Please let me know if you can help! Thanks. Text 626-484-9469. Dec 14, 2017
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
Hey guys, I'm looking for bad bolts in need of replacement in the Durango area. I've got most if not all of the tools needed, the stoke, and hopefully the time to start replacing some of the rotten bolts in the area.

I've got a spinner tool and bolt puller (courtesy of The Access Fund), a tap and accompanying eyebolt, access to a power power drill, a handful of stainless 5 piece bolts, possible access to more stainless bolts through ASCA, and lots of stoke. What I don't have is a draw stud to connect sleeves to the bolt puller (but I do have the eye bolt and access to a funkness device), a hooking tool for 5 piece bolts, a car (yet), and other stoked people.

What I'm looking for is any of the above tools, help populating a spreadsheet with information on bad bolts, and more stoked people.

I've got afternoons Tuesday through Friday when I'm not doing homework, weekends, and more time after the semester ends (May). If you want to contribute time, stoke, or anything else to the effort, feel free to hit me up by PM or text (423-504-7813). If you have info to contribute to the spreadsheet, please feel free to do so.

On the spreadsheet, please fill out columns A through C and column D if you have the information. If you end up replacing the bolt, please fill in columns E through I for future replacement efforts. Here's the link:

docs.google.com/spreadsheet… Mar 9, 2018