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Routes in East Side

420 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beowulf S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Brady's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chattanooga Choo Choo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
F*ck Cancer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Flat Track S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Girl's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Great Gazoo, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gunslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Grail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Jimmy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Interfearon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Jack Frost S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lemon Crack Climb T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lemon Drop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mexican Burrito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pebbles S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pyromania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasta Man!! S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sand Dollar, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Simonizer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Soul Kitchen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Split Decision S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sylas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We The People S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Woods' Cherry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Description

The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Getting There

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Pebbles
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
We The People
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Sylas
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 9
Interfearon
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 34
Holy Grail
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Brady's Route
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Pyromania
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Gunslinger
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Rasta Man!!
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 4
Beowulf
Sport, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Jack Frost
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 6
Simonizer
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
The Sand Dollar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Pebbles
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
We The People
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sylas
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Interfearon
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport
Holy Grail
 34
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Brady's Route
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pyromania
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Gunslinger
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rasta Man!!
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Beowulf
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, TR
Jack Frost
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Simonizer
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Sport
The Sand Dollar
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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Cpt. E  
The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there. Jul 20, 2009
Mark Boissevain
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Boissevain   Albuquerque, NM
If you are camping at the CG with the intent of going climbing, does that pose an issue for the Transfer Park Management?
Any info appreciated.
Mark Aug 3, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
When the river is low, the East Side is best approached as you would for the West Side. Park at the trailhead, walk through the campground, then cross the river.

When the river is high, you probably can't easily/safely cross the river. So use the East Side approach trail. It starts from the back right side of the gravel pit. We parked there without any issues. May 31, 2015

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