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Elevation: 8,565 ft
GPS: 37.46507, -107.67783
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,296 total · 240/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

The East Side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport climbs. Most of the routes have a higher level of difficulty than on the West Side The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Getting There Suggest change

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir at the Florida Campground, continue straight/right on FR597 for about a 1/2 mile. Park at a large, open rock quarry on the left. Pick up a climber's trail at the north end of the quarry that leads through the trees, and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.

Per j wharton: some notes for the out of town visitor: the Mountain Project directions seemed unclear. When you see a left turn signed for Florida Campground, go straight (right) up the slightly rough hill ahead for approximately half a mile, and park in a large "gravel pit" area. A small but nice trail leads out of the north end of this lot and reaches the east side of the canyon in approximately 20 minutes at a casual pace. A tyrolean underneath Brady's Route leads to the west side crags in high water.

33 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: East Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
The Happy Hooker
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Pebbles
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
We The People
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
The Great Gazoo
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 20
Mexican Burrito
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 51
Holy Grail
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 9
Interfearon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Brady's Route
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Lemon Drop
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Pyromania
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Gunslinger
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 11
Rasta Man!!
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 6
Simonizer
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
The Sand Dollar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone
 45
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Happy Hooker
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pebbles
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
We The People
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Great Gazoo
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Mexican Burrito
 20
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Holy Grail
 51
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Interfearon
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Brady's Route
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lemon Drop
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pyromania
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Gunslinger
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rasta Man!!
 11
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Simonizer
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Sport
The Sand Dollar
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in East Side »

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