Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 8,733 ft 2,662 m
GPS: 37.65773, -107.80962
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 152,075 total · 667/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Private Property DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Cascade Canyon is another nice piece of the Durango climbing scene. This scenic little canyon is host to a good selection of limestone sport routes. Most are in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. Cascade is a great Summer and Fall climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Winter is typically the season for ice and mixed climbing. Spring can be hit or miss, as routes can be seepy, wet and dirty. 

A. Friendship Wall is the first wall accessed when entering the canyon. There is a handful of shorter routes.

B. Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance) is the second cluster of routes accessed and host to over a dozen routes.

C. The Time Zone.

D. Futurescape Wall (Roof Area) is easily recognized by the large roof in this section of the canyon. The routes are mostly 5.12 - 5.13.

E. Headbangers Wall (Free Tibet Sector) begins after the large roof. This zone contains some of the longer routes that climb aesthetic aretes and corners.

F. Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) is a scenic spot near the falls and pool. There are several area classics.

G. Restaurant Row (West Side) is across the creek. It receives morning sun and has good afternoon shade.

Development of the canyon started in the early '90s thanks to climbers like Larry Morton, Steve "Booner" Price, Jay Pezbolt, Terry Parrish, among others. Many modern day area classics were established during this time. The development of routes has continued throughout the canyon with new climbers visiting the area.

Getting There Suggest change

From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles (past Cascade Village) to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. Take a right on Old Lime Creek Road, and park after a short distance at a small pullout on the right (park smart to make room for others). Follow the climber/fishermen/tourist trail down to a first fork, stay left, and at the second fork, take a right towards the cliffs that should now be visible.

Google Earth Map.

84 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Cascade Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Cascade Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V9-10 7C+
 5
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 171
One Summer's Eve
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 91
Colorfest
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
Genesis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Book of Life
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
The War Has Started
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
Free Tibet
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 87
Close To The Edge
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Freak Show
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
The Red Sea
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitte…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 36
Reverse Cowgirl
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
La Cantina
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
El Rancho
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
El Jefe
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari F. Garden of Eden Wal…
 5
V9-10 7C+ Boulder
One Summer's Eve F. Garden of Eden Wal…
 171
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Colorfest F. Garden of Eden Wal…
 91
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Genesis B. Genesis Wall (Cany…
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Book of Life B. Genesis Wall (Cany…
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The War Has Started F. Garden of Eden Wal…
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Free Tibet E Headbanger's Wall
 24
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Close To The Edge F. Garden of Eden Wal…
 87
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Freak Show F. Garden of Eden Wal…
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Red Sea B. Genesis Wall (Cany…
 24
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally sub… E Headbanger's Wall
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Reverse Cowgirl E Headbanger's Wall
 36
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
La Cantina D. Futurescape Wall (…
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
El Rancho D. Futurescape Wall (…
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
El Jefe D. Futurescape Wall (…
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cascade Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading