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Areas in Cascade Canyon

Friendship Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Futurescape Wall (Roof Area) 1 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) 1 / 9 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance) 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Headbanger's Wall 1 / 15 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Restaurant Row (West Side) 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 37.658, -107.81 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,681 total · 301/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Cascade Canyon is another nice piece of the Durango climbing scene. This scenic little canyon is host to a good selection of limestone sport routes. Most are in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. There is only a handful of easier routes (5.10 and under). Cascade is a great summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and dirty at times. Most of the climbing is on the east side of the canyon. The walls as encountered are called...

Friendship Wall
Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance)
Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)
Headbangers Wall (Free Tibet Sector)
Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area)

Restaurant Row, which is the west side of the canyon, has a good selection of climbs as well.

Per Larry Morton: there were 4 original developers that started back in the early '90s, myself, Steve "Booner " Price, Jay Pezbolt, and Terry Parrish.

Getting There

From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. Take a right on Old Lime Creek Road and park after a short distance at a small pullout on the right. Look for a climber's trail heading down into the canyon.

Per Luke Mehall: there is now a Tyrolean traverse so that the West Side can be easily accessed from the Main Side. This eliminates the need to trespass on the water treatment plant above the West Side. The Tyrolean can be accessed by hiking downstream from the waterfall for a couple hundred feet.

UPDATE - the Tyrolean that was installed to provide access to Restaurant Row (West Side) was stolen.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cascade Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V9-10 7C+
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Summer's Eve
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Colorfest
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Genesis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The War Has Started
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Close To The Edge
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Night Moves
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitted as…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reverse Cowgirl
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Cantina
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Super Twerk
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
El Rancho
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hammer and a Carrot
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
El Jefe
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sweatpants in Public
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) V9-10 7C+ Boulder
One Summer's Eve Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Colorfest Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Genesis Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The War Has Started Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Close To The Edge Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Night Moves Headbanger's Wall 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally sub… Headbanger's Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Reverse Cowgirl Headbanger's Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
La Cantina Futurescape Wall (Roof Area) 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Super Twerk Headbanger's Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
El Rancho Futurescape Wall (Roof Area) 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Hammer and a Carrot Headbanger's Wall 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
El Jefe Futurescape Wall (Roof Area) 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Sweatpants in Public Futurescape Wall (Roof Area) 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cascade Canyon »

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Photos

Found a pair of ice picks down in the canyon today as the sun was setting. Message me with a description if they're yours, and I can get them back to you! Dec 24, 2017
Hey Luke or Eric, I have some good static line I could donate for the Tyrolean. I'm only in town til Tues if you can catch me granita3@yahoo.com. Aug 26, 2017
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
The Tyrolean that was installed to provide access to Restaurant Row (West Side) was stolen. Aug 14, 2017
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
Thanks to Larry for the great history of the area. It is good to see that wall and route names are being changed to reflect the originals. Also thanks to Larry, Steve, & Co. for your efforts in establishing so many early Cascade classics! Aug 14, 2017
s.price
PS,CO
s.price   PS,CO
Nice to see Larry Morton clarify some of the history in the canyon.
Also nice that the issues we dealt with BITD during development seem to no longer exist. Truly a shame that many of the original names were changed and that routes ended up being chopped to satisfy the desires of one self-entitled individual. Jul 31, 2017
Fritz Nuffer
Durango, CO
Fritz Nuffer   Durango, CO
If you're bolting a worthwhile new line at Cascade, feel free to PM me, and I'll buy you some Mussy hooks for the anchors. Jul 18, 2017
Larry,
thanks so much for the comment. I think it's really important to understand and respect the history of a climbing area. Thank you for your hard work, I have enjoyed your routes for years.

I share your concern with Cascade becoming over bolted. Recently some serious squeeze jobs have been added, and it would be a damn shame if this continues. To anyone considering adding a new route to the canyon, please keep the lines independent. If your potential route is within arm's length to an existing line, please DO NOT bolt it!

It would be great if an administrator would change the names of the walls to what the original developers had given them. Dec 19, 2016
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Obviously, your original nomenclature must be reinstated, running the whole gamut of this lovely gorge once again. Dec 17, 2016
After looking at the route list, it's funny how time "changes" history. The local guidebook authors didn't respect others hard work, poached their routes, renaming others, and completely got lost in the history that really took place in the canyon, sad really.

There were 4 original developers that started back in the early '90s, myself, Steve "Booner " Price, Jay Pezbolt, and Terry Parrish.

Steve put up Cherub (Tim Kuss chopped it), In the Beginning, Wind of Change, Colorfest, and a really nice thin face left of Babel.

Jay put up Rozenkranz, Gildenstern, Gardening at Night, and Babel.

Terry put up Respecting the Law (crack), Free Tibet, and Still Waiting.

I bolted Cut Loose, Revelation, Red Sea, Genesis, Book of Life, Noah's Ark (aka Peer Pressure), Pulling Teeth, By Tor and the Cur Dog, Billy Manilly (unfinished, hangers stolen), Wicked Sensation, God of Thunder, Answer to the Master, The Temptation, One Summer's Eve, Close to the Edge, Charlie Brown's Christmas Tree, Cafe Cascade, The Red Snapper, and The Oaks.

Walking into the canyon, the walls were named Friendship Wall (small wall with 2 chopped routes, Cherub, and Cut Loose), Genesis Wall from Revelation to Noah's Ark Arete, Futurescape Wall (aka Roof Area) which is from Respecting the Law crack to the upper cave. Headbangers Wall (aka Free Tibet area) from By Tor and the Cur Dog down to Colorfest, Garden of Eden Wall from The Temptation (left of Colorfest) to Close to the Edge at pool. Across the river, that whole wall was called Restaurant Row.

There was one other dude named Jason who put up about 3-4 routes as well, and Tim Kuss put up a crack down by the waterfall. I think Track Team that started just left of Free Tibet, bolts and gear.

So there you have it, a small history lesson on Cascade Canyon. I visited recently, and there are many new routes, some lines we looked at back in the day, but they were super hard looking, so we left them alone for better climbers than ourselves. So good job, people! I just hope that CC doesn't get over bolted where the routes become contrived, it's a beautiful place. Dec 15, 2016
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
There is now a Tyrolean traverse so that the West Side can be easily accessed from the Main Side. This eliminates the need to trespass on the water treatment plant above the West Side. Big thanks to Eric Dixon who installed the anchors, who has also been adding some sweet routes over there on the West Side! The Tyrolean can be accessed by hiking downstream from the waterfall for a couple hundred feet. Aug 19, 2016
s.price
PS,CO
s.price   PS,CO
Doesn't the sign say Lime Creek on the highway? It is Lime Creek road. Jun 17, 2013
If you find a dog here, please contact me, my number is (local)-7494416 Jun 14, 2013
There are a handful of routes in the canyon with draws hanging on them. They were not abandoned or left by accident. People are projecting these routes and the draws are intentionally left in place to ease the process.

Feel free to climb on them, but PLEASE leave them in place! Oct 25, 2012
s.price
PS,CO
s.price   PS,CO
Glad to see new routes going in. As one of the original developers, we always knew there were a few gems left. Gotta get over there and try the new stuff. Thanks to those making the effort. Sep 13, 2012
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
Who the hell is bolting routes at Cascade? Doesn't everyone know that they are just bolting choss. I've already looked at those lines years ago, and they look like they are screaming trash. I mean climbing is here for us, we shouldn't be disturbing the balance of nature. Keep your bolts to yourself, because all the other bolted lines were natural. Sep 4, 2012

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