Elevation: 8,733 ft
GPS: 37.658, -107.81 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,948 total · 516/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Cascade Canyon is another nice piece of the Durango climbing scene. This scenic little canyon is host to a good selection of limestone sport routes. Most are in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. There is only a handful of easier routes (5.10 and under). Cascade is a great summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can get seepy during wet years. The walls as encountered are called...

Friendship Wall
Genesis Wall (Canyon Entrance)
Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)
Headbangers Wall (Free Tibet Sector)
Garden of Eden Wall (Pool Area)
Restaurant Row (West Side)

Development of the canyon started in the early '90s thanks to climbers like Larry Morton, Steve "Booner" Price, Jay Pezbolt, and Terry Parrish. Many modern day area classics were established during this time.

Getting There

From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles (past Cascade Village) to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. Take a right on Old Lime Creek Road and park after a short distance at a small pullout on the right (park smart to make room for others). Follow the climber/fishermen/tourist trail down to a fork, take a right towards the cliffs that should now be visible.

Per Luke Mehall: there is now a Tyrolean traverse so that the West Side can be easily accessed from the Main Side. This eliminates the need to trespass on the water treatment plant above the West Side. The Tyrolean can be accessed by hiking downstream from the waterfall for a couple hundred feet.

UPDATE - the Tyrolean that was installed to provide access to Restaurant Row (West Side) was stolen.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cascade Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V9-10 7C+
 4
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 85
One Summer's Eve
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Colorfest
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 28
Genesis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
The War Has Started
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 45
Close To The Edge
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
30 and Dirty
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 6
Night Moves
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitte…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Reverse Cowgirl
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
La Cantina
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Super Twerk
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
El Rancho
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Hammer and a Carrot
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
El Jefe
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari Garden of Eden Wall (…
 4
V9-10 7C+ Boulder
One Summer's Eve Garden of Eden Wall (…
 85
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Colorfest Garden of Eden Wall (…
 47
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Genesis Genesis Wall (Canyon…
 28
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The War Has Started Garden of Eden Wall (…
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Close To The Edge Garden of Eden Wall (…
 45
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
30 and Dirty Genesis Wall (Canyon…
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Night Moves Headbanger's Wall
 6
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally sub… Headbanger's Wall
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Reverse Cowgirl Headbanger's Wall
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
La Cantina Futurescape Wall (Roo…
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Super Twerk Headbanger's Wall
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
El Rancho Futurescape Wall (Roo…
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Hammer and a Carrot Headbanger's Wall
 3
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
El Jefe Futurescape Wall (Roo…
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cascade Canyon »

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