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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doppelganger S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: David Kozak, 1980s
Page Views: 6,142 total, 59/month
Shared By: Tim Kuss on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route on soft looking but highly featured sandstone - it is the sandstone version of tufa climbing. The cruxes are at the first bolt and another is at the fun mantle midway.

Location

It is located 20 feet right of I Need a Shower.

Protection

Bolts and a fixed stopper at the roof - eleven clips. There are fixed biners at the anchor.

Per David Kozak: the FA was done with two bolts and one fixed wire in the upper dihedral.

Photos

I did the first ascent of this route back in the mid '80s using two bolts and one fixed wire in the upper dihedral. I think I named it Pale Skinned Nebraskan, though I don't recall for sure. It was pretty much an "R" or "X" lead when I did it. Enter Sandman is a retro-bolted version. I'm happy Tim put in the time and money to make it a route that many now enjoy. It's a fun route and deserves traffic. It's original version was perhaps never repeated. Sep 24, 2017
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Hey Choss, in my mind it wasn't a flame, I thoroughly enjoyed the pics. Now if they were of me, I would call foul. BTW I am from Cali now, but I cut my climbing teeth in good ole Gunnison, Co. Nov 4, 2011
chosspector
San Juans, CO
  5.10a
chosspector   San Juans, CO
  5.10a
YDPL8S proves that you can't post ANYTHING on mountainproject without some dude from Cali (or Boulder) flaming you for no reason. Cool, bro!!!! Nov 3, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
Word. She was fetching the quickdraws. OOps, I didn't realize they had people patrolling this site for fowls. Oct 26, 2011
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
9 pictures for 70 feet of climbing? That's more beta than you get for most boulder problems. If it wasn't for the fetching model in this beta/topo, I'd cry foul. Oct 26, 2011
GOOD NAME. Sep 18, 2010
Marty Brenner
Durango, CO
  5.10
Marty Brenner   Durango, CO
  5.10
Fun route but lots of still soft rock in the middle. Should clean up nicely with use. Fixed nut in crack is gone, but you could place a small piece or just skip it and not worry. Jul 19, 2009