Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: David Kozak, 1980s
Page Views: 6,661 total · 58/month
Shared By: Tim Kuss on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

71 Opinions

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This is a great route on soft looking but highly featured sandstone - it is the sandstone version of tufa climbing. The cruxes are at the first bolt and another is at the fun mantle midway.


It is located 20 feet right of I Need a Shower.


Bolts and a fixed stopper at the roof - eleven clips. There are fixed biners at the anchor.

Per David Kozak: the FA was done with two bolts and one fixed wire in the upper dihedral.


Marty Brenner
Durango, CO
Marty Brenner   Durango, CO
Fun route but lots of still soft rock in the middle. Should clean up nicely with use. Fixed nut in crack is gone, but you could place a small piece or just skip it and not worry. Jul 19, 2009
GOOD NAME. Sep 18, 2010
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
9 pictures for 70 feet of climbing? That's more beta than you get for most boulder problems. If it wasn't for the fetching model in this beta/topo, I'd cry foul. Oct 26, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
Word. She was fetching the quickdraws. OOps, I didn't realize they had people patrolling this site for fowls. Oct 26, 2011
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
YDPL8S proves that you can't post ANYTHING on mountainproject without some dude from Cali (or Boulder) flaming you for no reason. Cool, bro!!!! Nov 3, 2011
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Hey Choss, in my mind it wasn't a flame, I thoroughly enjoyed the pics. Now if they were of me, I would call foul. BTW I am from Cali now, but I cut my climbing teeth in good ole Gunnison, Co. Nov 4, 2011
I did the first ascent of this route back in the mid '80s using two bolts and one fixed wire in the upper dihedral. I think I named it Pale Skinned Nebraskan, though I don't recall for sure. It was pretty much an "R" or "X" lead when I did it. Enter Sandman is a retro-bolted version. I'm happy Tim put in the time and money to make it a route that many now enjoy. It's a fun route and deserves traffic. It's original version was perhaps never repeated. Sep 24, 2017
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
The retrobolted version is much appreciated. Extremely safe feeling and very well-bolted. The hint of the "old days" comes from the red sling to piton that you need to clip. Sweet! Jun 10, 2018