Elevation: 8,400 ft
GPS: 37.465, -107.678 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 83,588 total · 569/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Lemon is another nice piece of the climbing in Durango. This scenic little canyon lies to the north of Lemon Reservoir and is split by the Florida River. The rock is a mildly coarse and fractured granite that makes for a nice contrast to the sandstone and limestone that characterizes most of the climbing around town. Routes are found on both the East Side and West Side of the river and can require different approaches (depending on water level). Most of the climbs are protected by bolts, but some require gear. Climbing has been going on at Lemon for years now, but there is still development occurring. New routes are being established on both sides of the canyon. A 70 meter rope can be useful for lowering off some of the longer climbs.

Probably the best season is fall. It is possible to chase the shade, depending on the time of day, which makes climbing at Lemon in the summer months nice as well. During much of the spring and winter the canyon can be wet and dirty from runoff.

Per Hansen Wendlandt: several climbs can be done TR (although only a few have back-up anchors), but several more are mixed. To assume you should simply sport lead some of these is to risk life and limb.

Getting There

From the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (Bread), follow Florida Road east for about 12 miles. Stay left at a signed intersection and continue on CR243 for about 5 more miles to reach a gate at the north end of Lemon Reservoir. For specific directions on how to approach the cliffs, see East Side and West Side descriptions.

Per Hansen Wendlandt: The Forest Service sometimes closes the gate, so you might have to walk a mile. There is a shortcut trail by campsite 2 that leads to the upper campground.

Dogs & Kids

Per Hansen Wendlandt: don't plan on bringing your dog or kids.

64 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lemon Reservoir

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
Hotness
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Finding Forester
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 79
Vertical Alluvium
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Bonsai
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Lemon Peel
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
We The People
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 37
Via Manolo
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 38
Holy Grail
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Brady's Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Rasta Man!!
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 5
NoJo
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 6
Simonizer
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
The Sand Dollar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hotness W Side
 70
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Finding Forester W Side
 57
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Vertical Alluvium W Side
 79
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone E Side
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bonsai W Side
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lemon Peel W Side
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chucky Bill W Side
 57
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
We The People E Side
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Via Manolo W Side
 37
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Holy Grail E Side
 38
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Brady's Route E Side
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rasta Man!! E Side
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
NoJo W Side
 5
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Simonizer E Side
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Sport
The Sand Dollar E Side
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lemon Reservoir »

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