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| Elevation: | 8,400 ft |
| GPS: |
37.4651, -107.678 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 121,784 total · 663/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This scenic little canyon lies to the north of Lemon Reservoir and is split by the Florida River. The rock is a mildly coarse and fractured granite that makes for a nice contrast to the sandstone and limestone that characterizes most of the climbing around town. Routes are found on both the East Side and West Side of the river and have different approaches and parking areas. There is now a tyrolean traverse to facilitate crossing the river. Most of the climbs are protected by bolts, but some require gear. A 70 meter rope can be useful for lowering off some of the longer climbs.
It is possible to chase the sun or shade, depending on the conditions.
Per Hansen Wendlandt: several climbs can be done TR (although only a few have back-up anchors), but several more are mixed. To assume you should simply sport lead some of these is to risk life and limb.
Getting There
From the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (Bread), follow Florida Road (CR240) east for about 12 miles. At a signed intersection just past Helen's Store, continue north on CR243 towards Lemon Reservoir. Continue north on CR243, passing the reservoir, to reach a gate and cattleguard at the north end of Lemon Reservoir at the Florida Campground. For specific directions on how to approach the cliffs from here, see East Side and West Side descriptions.
Alternately: per Samson Drake: when you see a left turn for Florida Campground, go straight (right) up the slightly rough hill and park in the large "gravel pit" (the parking area)(37.4571618, -107.6796459). A small nice trail leads north it reaches the east side of the canyon in about 20 minutes. A tyrolean underneath Brady's Route (probably an extra 5mins) leads to the west side crags.
Per Hansen Wendlandt: The Forest Service sometimes closes the gate, so you might have to walk a mile. There is a shortcut trail by campsite 2 that leads to the upper campground.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lemon Reservoir
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