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Lemon Reservoir Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Lemon Reservoir

East Side 2 / 31 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33

Lemon Reservoir Boulder Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

West Side 12 / 23 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 29

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Elevation:	8,400 ft	2,560 m
GPS:	37.4651, -107.678 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	123,268 total · 631/month
Shared By:	e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This scenic little canyon lies to the north of Lemon Reservoir and is split by the Florida River. The rock is a mildly coarse and fractured granite that makes for a nice contrast to the sandstone and limestone that characterizes most of the climbing around town. Routes are found on both the East Side and West Side of the river and have different approaches and parking areas. There is now a Tyrolean traverse that runs from near Brady's Route on the East Side to just upriver from Chucky Bill on the West Side. This makes enjoying both sides of the canyon much easier.

Most of the climbs are protected by bolts, but some require gear.
A 70 meter rope is useful for lowering off some of the longer climbs.
Depending on the conditions, it is possible to chase the sun or shade.

Getting There

From the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (37.297567, -107.848780), follow Florida Road (CR240) east for about 12 miles. At a signed intersection just past Helen's Store (37.360811, -107.671399), continue north on CR243 towards Lemon Reservoir. Continue north on CR243, passing the reservoir, to reach a gate and cattleguard at the north end of Lemon Reservoir at the Florida Campground (37.451539, -107.679775). For specific directions on how to approach the cliffs from here, see East Side and West Side descriptions.

Google Earth map.

Dogs & Kids

Per Hansen Wendlandt: don't plan on bringing your dog or kids.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lemon Reservoir

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c M3+ A0 5 ● Snakes And Ladders TR, Aid, Mixed W Side
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 94 ● Hotness Sport W Side
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 80 ● Finding Forester Sport W Side
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 81 ● Bonsai Sport W Side
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 59 ● Lemon Peel Sport W Side
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 86 ● Chucky Bill Trad, Sport W Side
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 119 ● Vertical Alluvium Trad, Sport W Side
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 40 ● We The People Sport E Side
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 42 ● Via Manolo Sport W Side
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 54 ● Holy Grail Sport E Side
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 34 ● Brady's Route Sport E Side
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 12 ● Rasta Man!! Sport E Side
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 5 ● NoJo Sport W Side
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 6 ● Simonizer Sport E Side
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 8 ● The Sand Dollar Sport E Side