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Routes in Falls Creek Cliffs

Left No Name Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
Out On The Tiles 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ X
Unnamed (submitted as Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
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Elevation: 7,111 ft
GPS: 37.336, -107.87 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,011 total · 31/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Dec 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: This area may not be open to climbing as houses now line the base... Details

Description

This is a nice outcrop of soft sandstone. The cliffs in the Falls Creek Archeological Area further along CR 205 (amazing potential for a destination area) are closed.

Getting There

From Junction Creek road, take CR 205 past Turtle Lake Bouldering. The cliff is obvious on the left.

3 Total Climbs

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Justin Laursen
Chattanooga, TN
Justin Laursen   Chattanooga, TN
I was wandering around the east side of Falls Creek today and couldn't help but to wonder about the climbing potential of the cliffs on the west side. It looks like there have been some ascents in the past, but that due to archeological interests, the climbing is now closed. Does anyone know more about the closure and if there would be any type of access work that could be done to open the area in the future? The rock just looks so good. Nov 6, 2016
I heard there was a dead Navajo/Ute princess up there. You might potentially be able to walk in from the top to not get noticed, but it definitely is the cave with the sweet overhang where she is supposedly buried. Nov 7, 2016
The outcrop that contains the two (now three) posted routes lies on what David Kozak calls the "Turtle Lake Wall" (p. 40 of his 1985 SOUTHWEST ROCK). It is composed of the Junction Creek Sandstone, as are the X Rock and East Animas climbing areas. He calls the band of Dakota Sandstone containing the Coyote's Tooth, up the hillside from the so-called Turtle Lake bouldering area, the "Chapman Lake Wall." Locals know that Chapman Lake and Turtle Lake are the same lake. Neither cliff band is anywhere near Falls Creek, although the road to the Falls Creek subdivision passes below both cliff bands. The long northward extension of Kozak's Turtle Lake Wall lies in the archeological area, above the Falls Creek Road (CR 205). Dec 11, 2017
Esther's remains were repatriated to the cave — by the Hopi — along with her belongings. Dec 11, 2017
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Justin, REALLY! - not just for climbers but for students of archaeology, geology, flora/fauna lovers...you name it. Valley locals and Durangotangs might be more proactive if they dreamed a bit [9R should] about what's best for the outdoor K-12 classroom... so much to offer the young and old ones alike...imagine gentle educational paths, with interpretative signs, some parts closed to climbing, especially fragile parts, like Esther's Cave... attempted what you are suggesting around when Beyer was doing a FA near the Yoke Roof [got busted] - - daunting bureaucratic obstacles to surmount...until then, stealthy summer nights w/ a full moon.... Dec 20, 2017
I just posted photos of the FA of Old Bad Ugly. Feb 15, 2018

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