Elevation: 8,491 ft
GPS: 37.465, -107.678 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,637 total · 220/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

The west side of Lemon hosts several good climbs. Most the climbing is bolt protected, but bring a light rack, as some routes are mixed. The grades tend to be more moderate than on the East Side. Expect to get morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, go left across a bridge and through the campground following the dirt road to the Transfer Park Trailhead. Hike back through the Transfer Park Campground and down a short trail to a knotted fixed rope that leads to the base of the cliff.

Per jed botsford: the correct way to access the west side of this climbing area is to park at the trailhead and then walk down to the climbing area through the campground. Please do not park in the campground. If someone is camping in site 21 which is where you access the climbing area, please be respectful and talk with them about what you are going to do. DO NOT just walk through the site with out acknowledging the campers.

25 Total Climbs

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Location: West Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
Hotness
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Finding Forester
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Tons of Fun
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
Vertical Alluvium
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
Bonsai
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Lemon Peel
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Prow Hugger
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Cape of Good Hope
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Hymanizer
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Cape Point
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 38
Via Manolo
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Slopestyle
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Ball Chopper
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 5
NoJo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hotness
 72
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Finding Forester
 57
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tons of Fun
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Vertical Alluvium
 82
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Bonsai
 61
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lemon Peel
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Prow Hugger
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chucky Bill
 58
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Cape of Good Hope
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Hymanizer
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Cape Point
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Via Manolo
 38
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Slopestyle
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Ball Chopper
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
NoJo
 5
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
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