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Elevation: 8,491 ft 2,588 m
GPS: 37.46485, -107.67834
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,091 total · 233/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

The west side of Lemon hosts several good climbs. Most the climbing is bolt protected, but bring a light rack, as some routes are mixed. The grades tend to be more moderate than on the East Side. Expect to get morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There Suggest change

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir at the Florida Campground, turn left, and follow FR596 through the Florida Campground and towards the Transfer Park Campground. Park at the parking lot for the Burnt Timber Trailhead before entering the Transfer Park Campground (GPS coordinates are: 37.463513, -107.681895). Do not continue into the campground unless you pay for a site. Hike through the Transfer Park Campground to site #21 where a short trail leads upriver to a fixed knotted rope that leads down to the base of the cliff at Hotness. Be respectful of paying campers that might be in site #21.

A Google Earth map.

30 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: A. West Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c M3+ A0
 8
Snakes And Ladders
TR, Aid, Mixed
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 95
Hotness
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 80
Finding Forester
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Tons of Fun
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
Bonsai
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Lemon Peel
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Prow Hugger
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 122
Vertical Alluvium
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Cape of Good Hope
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 19
Hymanizer
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 8
Cape Point
Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 42
Via Manolo
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Ball Chopper
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 5
NoJo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Snakes And Ladders
 8
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c M3+ A0 TR, Aid, Mixed
Hotness
 95
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Finding Forester
 80
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Tons of Fun
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Bonsai
 85
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lemon Peel
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Prow Hugger
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chucky Bill
 89
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Vertical Alluvium
 122
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Cape of Good Hope
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Hymanizer
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Cape Point
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Via Manolo
 42
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Ball Chopper
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
NoJo
 5
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Side »

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