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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 8,491 ft
GPS: 37.465, -107.678 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,671 total, 147/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The west side of Lemon hosts several good climbs. Most the climbing is bolt protected, but bring a light rack, as some routes are mixed. The grades tend to be more moderate than on the East Side. Expect to get morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, go left across a bridge and through the campground following the dirt road to the Transfer Park Trailhead. Hike back through the Transfer Park Campground and down a short trail to a knotted fixed rope that leads to the base of the cliff.

Per jed botsford: the correct way to access the west side of this climbing area is to park at the trailhead and then walk down to the climbing area through the campground. Please do not park in the campground. If someone is camping in site 21 which is where you access the climbing area, please be respectful and talk with them about what you are going to do. DO NOT just walk through the site with out acknowledging the campers.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finding Forester
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tons of Fun
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertical Alluvium
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bonsai
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lemon Peel
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cape of Good Hope
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hymanizer
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape Point
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Via Manolo
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slopestyle
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ball Chopper
Trad, Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
NoJo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hotness 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Finding Forester 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tons of Fun 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Vertical Alluvium 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Bonsai 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lemon Peel 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chucky Bill 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Cape of Good Hope 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Hymanizer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Cape Point 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Via Manolo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Slopestyle 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Ball Chopper 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
NoJo 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Side »

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Photos

To reach the Cape of Good Hope and the Upstream cliffs, simply take the occasionally cairned climber's trail that parallels the rim. No need to get wet, whack bushes, or lick poison ivy. Finding where to branch off may take some trial and error.

The Cape routes require rapping from the big tree for about eight feet to reach the bolted anchors, which are out of sight, just below the rim. The Upstream routes can be reached by descending a talus gully along the north side of the cliff, to the base. A fixed rope provides access to routes farther left. Some routes can be reached by rapping from the anchors. Oct 11, 2016
Around Right is around right from Mudslide. The route order could be changed to reflect this reality. Oct 10, 2016
Steve Elder
Durango
Steve Elder   Durango
Replaced the anchors for Hotness yesterday with 1/2" bolts, quicklinks, and rings.
It should be good for quite a while now. Jun 10, 2016
Gary N
Durango, CO
Gary N   Durango, CO
Dehydrated Lemon

Listed as an M6 dry tooling route under CO Ice & Mixed. Put up by Steve Elder. Jun 3, 2016
What is the climb (sport) between Vertical and Lemon? Fully bolted route with anchors but not listed here. Probably could use some cleaning of loose rock and dirty ledges but was a fun route. Grade seemed about 5.8-5.9 in comparison to the surrounding climbs. Jun 2, 2016
Steve Elder
Durango
Steve Elder   Durango
Thanks, Forrest, for the heads up on the Hotness anchor. Sounds like some random dick move by someone. Never mind, this is my local crag, so I will replace the access rope, anchor, and the Hotness anchor as soon as I can. Nov 4, 2015
Just a heads up here. Climbed at Lemon today, and as per Steve Elders previous post, the fixed line to access the West Side area as well as the bolts are gone. ALSO, went to warm up on "Hotness", and the first bolt was gone as was 2 of the 3 bolts and all the chains that made up the anchor. All that remains at the top of this climb is a single bolt. Definitely a bit of a surprise to reach the top of a climb I've done numerous times to see the anchor had magically disappeared. For whatever the reason this happened, definitely something to take note of as I know this route sees a good amount of traffic.... Nov 2, 2015
Steve Elder
Durango
Steve Elder   Durango
So, between Oct. 27th and 30th, the fixed rope to access the West Side was removed, as was the anchor including the bolts. Any ideas if this was done for a legit reason or just a random act of stupidity? Oct 31, 2015
JVW
JVW  
Myself and Torrey Rodgers bolted this in 2004 or 2005, it was never given a name. If I remember correctly, Torrey did the FA and we felt the route was 5.7 - Tim may have named this Around Right in his guidebook. Oct 14, 2013
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
infiniteforests– I think it's "Around Right", but I'm not sure either. I actually climbed it with my gf just a few days ago, and found myself a bit confused too.

As you go through the route descriptions on MP, it does talk about climbing out of the valley, and then climbs proceeding it are in the 5.7-5.8 range. The one in your photo was the only one that I found in that particular area, so I wasn't sure what it was either. Aug 18, 2013
Patrick Yarbrough
Colorado Springs, CO
Patrick Yarbrough   Colorado Springs, CO
I found a sport route on the west side that doesn't fit the description of the listed routes. It was located maybe 150- 200 feet upstream from the top of the gully. Short route, maybe 30 feet long with three bolts to a bolted anchor, and it felt like it was a 5.7 to me. Does anyone know what this is?


Aug 14, 2013
Gary N
Durango, CO
Gary N   Durango, CO
Yes, you can just climb up the fixed line to get back up. From there, you can walk back to the top and grab your anchors. It's a short, easy scramble to get up and down the fixed line. About 20'. Jul 7, 2013
Sweet! Thanks for the heads up!

So this fixed line to get down - can you go back up it or do you just top out on your last climb of the day to leave???

Thanks again! Jul 6, 2013
Gary N
Durango, CO
Gary N   Durango, CO
Kevin,

It is very easy to get to the top of the cliffs and drop some top-ropes down. There is a trail that heads up towards the top before you get to the fixed line that takes you down.

Enjoy. Jul 6, 2013
Hey there!

Is it possible to set up top ropes on the more moderate stuff without leading them first?

Tough to tell from the description of the approach whether you can access the top of the band from the bottom or before you get down???

We have some limited sport leading experience, but it sounds like some of the grades here are a little sketchier, and I don't want to get in over my head.

Thanks! Jul 6, 2013
The correct way to access the west side of this climbing area is to park at the trailhead and then walk down to the climbing area through the campground. Please do not park in the campground. If someone is camping in site 21 which is where you access the climbing area, please be respectful and talk with them about what you are going to do. DO NOT just walk through the site with out acknowledging the campers.

The FS is currently looking at a alternative approach which will alleviate the need for going through the campground. Until this new approach is in place, be repectful and set a good example. Jun 14, 2013
Cpt. E  
The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there. Jul 20, 2009
jmapping
Carbondale, co
jmapping   Carbondale, co
I haven't walked the actual trail yet. It is supposed to be from the large parking area and leads to the top of the West side cliffs. Not very much longer than walking the road. I will try to get more information this weekend. Jul 16, 2009
Why don't we put up a tyrolean and then have all of the access from the east? Thoughts?

Ben Jul 14, 2009
What trail?
Can you give us a description or draw us a map?

Thanks,
Brad Jul 14, 2009
jmapping
Carbondale, co
jmapping   Carbondale, co
The Transfer Park management made it clear that they do not want climbers walking through the campsites to access the West Side Walls. The management staff has already encountered hostility from climbers which creates a very poor image of the local climbing community. Please use the trail from the major parking area. If anyone wants better access, please contact the San Juan National Forest to submit requests. Jul 12, 2009

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