Hermosa Rock Climbing

Hermosa's West Coast seems scrappy at best when viewed from the road, but after the 20+ minute approach, standing under these cliffs, one can appreciate the vertical, overhanging starts and dynamic, varied climbing to this 80 foot cliff band 300 yards long. Most of the routes are traditional but often have bolts as well. The largest roof routes in Animas Valley are located here as well as the most adventurous climbing one will find locally. There are a mix of aid routes turning the 50 foot overhang of Khumbu's Cove to 5.7 bolted slabs, but this place has only a few routes for novices. From Jake's Gully, a long traverse contouring around the ridge leads through the trees and scrub to the Pinnacle area.

Offering many airy hard bolted routes, the aforementioned spire can be seen from US 550. Tim Kuss and Joel Schiavone and others are responsible for most of the Pinnacle area climbs there. I sure wish they would document their routes. Further right of the detached pillar, around the corner, the Hang Em' High area has some nice, strenuous crack routes as well.... All three areas have great climbs on some great rock.

Flashback to 1988... having just arrived from discovering and then creating routes at Footsteps Rocks, The Promontory and Trinidad Head, California, Matthias Holladay asked local hardman Joel Schiavone where some good new route potential might be located. Joel then told him about the Pinnacle Area of Hermosa. This continued the development of said pinnacle and started the development of new routes at the Hang 'Em High and West Coast Areas.