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Areas in Vallecito Crags

Dark Side, The 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
High Times Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Penthouse 2 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Slippery Slope, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Park Slabs 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Trundle Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Vertical Wall 2 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 9,500 ft
GPS: 37.488, -107.527 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 20,256 total, 181/month
Shared By: Jaaron Mankins on Oct 7, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Vallecito Crags is a nice, little area with alpine feel. There are some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs, and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky.

There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. It is shady in the morning and super sunny all day.

Getting There

Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. The trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). It is a downhill hike on the way in and uphill on the way out.

These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, continue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.

Map: http://maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,-107.536514&spn=0.00493,0.009645&hnear=Durango,+La+Plata,+Colorado&t=w&z=17.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vallecito Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I have been climbing some routes on the rock near the Vallecito Creek campground. In exploring the rock down there, I found a couple bolted top anchors and one semi-bolted route. I was wondering if anyone on here knows anything about the bolts and who put them there? Sep 6, 2017
I think it's worth noting that most of the Penthouse climbs are in fact quite easily toproped and being shorter in nature are actually quite fun to solo toprope. Cheers May 22, 2015
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
It's cool that these are bolted into real routes now. I remember doing these in the early 1980s. John Duran and friends had done a bunch of climbing on this wall previous to taking me there. It's funny how having bolts to follow somehow makes the climbing better. We used to just look for the cleanest line and avoid making climbing into easy territory. Of course, we were into big runouts at that time, so no bolts was a plus. Jun 17, 2014
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
Fort Lewis College Climbing Club put cairns in last spring. If you park at the right switchback, you shouldn't be able to miss the approach. Enjoy!



Oct 9, 2012
ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
Jump off of the Berry ATV trail after about 150 feet onto a footpath on the right. It's a nice trail down the ridgeline. Somebody put nice cairns all the way to the vertical wall. It helps funnel traffic on a trail and keeps people from getting lost. Thanks.

This area is great. May 7, 2012
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
Google map link directly to the talus field below the wall: http://maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,-107.536514&spn=0.00493,0.009645&hnear=Durango,+La+Plata,+Colorado&t=w&z=17.

I'm heading up there this weekend for my first time and will report back with photos/ driving directions/ approach instructions. Apr 18, 2012
bmo
durango, co
bmo   durango, co
The directions could use a little more description, you branch off the Berry Park Trail almost immediately, we missed it due to lots of leaves on the ground and wandered around in the woods for a while. Dec 13, 2011

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