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Routes in Penthouse

Bolting for Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Centerfold S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude, Where's My Previa? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kid Rock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kivu Route T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pocket Rocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shallow Hal S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stabbin' the Cat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vallecito Burrito S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Description

This is a sweet little sport/mixed crag that is great for a quick pump or after work burn. It is a fairly short wall, but the rock quality is impeccable. It has a cool view, and nobody here makes this a desirable destination. This was the first crag developed at Middle Mountain.

Getting There

Hike down ridgeline from car to uppermost cliff - 50' tall with obvious bolted routes and anchors. All anchors easily reached from top of cliff.

9 Total Climbs

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Location: Penthouse Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Penthouse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 5
Bolting for Jesus
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Shallow Hal
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Pocket Rocket
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Centerfold
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bolting for Jesus
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Shallow Hal
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pocket Rocket
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Centerfold
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Penthouse »

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Photos

ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
There is one more route between Stabbing the Cat and Shallow Hal. Four bolts. 5.9. This is another fun one. Really fun wall with excellent rock, belay stances and scenery. May 13, 2012
Mike Sullivan
Durango, CO
Mike Sullivan   Durango, CO
Note that the anchors for each of these climbs consist of a pair of bolt hangers, most of which are located quite a ways back from the top of the route. To descend, you either have to top out and walk off (easy 2-minute scramble back to the base), or hang a cordelette or a few slings from the bolts and grab your anchor gear later. This crag would be a lot more user friendly if it was equipped with proper sport anchors, but it does offer a handful of fun moderate sport climbs in a beautiful setting. The trad routes are short and pretty lame. Beware of loose rock on a few of the routes, including Stabbing... and Dude....

BTW, I think the previous comment is mistaken about the new 5.9. There's no other route in between Hal and Stabbing the Cat. Jun 4, 2015

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