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Penthouse

Colorado > Durango > Vallecito Crags

Description

This is a sweet little sport/mixed crag that is great for a quick pump or after work burn. It is a fairly short wall, but the rock quality is impeccable. It has a cool view, and nobody here makes this a desirable destination. This was the first crag developed at Middle Mountain.

Getting There

Hike down ridgeline from car to uppermost cliff - 50' tall with obvious bolted routes and anchors. All anchors easily reached from top of cliff.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing in the high alpine at the Penthouse.<br>
Bolting For Jesus (5.10).
[Hide Photo] Climbing in the high alpine at the Penthouse. Bolting For Jesus (5.10).
The superb stone of the Penthouse.
[Hide Photo] The superb stone of the Penthouse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ozman
CO / NM
[Hide Comment] There is one more route between Stabbing the Cat and Shallow Hal. Four bolts. 5.9. This is another fun one. Really fun wall with excellent rock, belay stances and scenery. May 13, 2012
Mike Sullivan
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] Note that the anchors for each of these climbs consist of a pair of bolt hangers, most of which are located quite a ways back from the top of the route. To descend, you either have to top out and walk off (easy 2-minute scramble back to the base), or hang a cordelette or a few slings from the bolts and grab your anchor gear later. This crag would be a lot more user friendly if it was equipped with proper sport anchors, but it does offer a handful of fun moderate sport climbs in a beautiful setting. The trad routes are short and pretty lame. Beware of loose rock on a few of the routes, including Stabbing... and Dude....

BTW, I think the previous comment is mistaken about the new 5.9. There's no other route in between Hal and Stabbing the Cat. Jun 4, 2015
Josh Anderson
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] For anyone else who may have struggled to find this spot the first time:

Coordinates: 37°28'50.4"N 107°32'08.5"W or 37.480654, -107.535688.

Enjoy! Jun 26, 2021