Vallecito Crags is a nice, little area with alpine feel. There are some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs, and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky.
There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. It is shady in the morning and super sunny all day.
Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. The trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). It is a downhill hike on the way in and uphill on the way out.
These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, continue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.
Map: http://maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,-107.536514&spn=0.00493,0.009645&hnear=Durango,+La+Plata,+Colorado&t=w&z=17.
durango, co
Ramstein, DE
I'm heading up there this weekend for my first time and will report back with photos/ driving directions/ approach instructions. Apr 18, 2012
CO / NM
This area is great. May 7, 2012
Ramstein, DE
Durango, CO
Durango, CO
Fayetteville, WV