Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Vallecito Crags

Colorado > Durango

Description

Vallecito Crags is a nice, little area with alpine feel. There are some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs, and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky.

There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. It is shady in the morning and super sunny all day.

Getting There

Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. The trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). It is a downhill hike on the way in and uphill on the way out.

These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, continue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.

Map: http://maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,-107.536514&spn=0.00493,0.009645&hnear=Durango,+La+Plata,+Colorado&t=w&z=17.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alex on some awesome steep face climbing on Vertical Wall.
[Hide Photo] Alex on some awesome steep face climbing on Vertical Wall.
Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.
[Hide Photo] Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.
Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends at the tree above his head at the skyline.
[Hide Photo] Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends at the tree above his head at the skyline.
Based on approach descriptions, I've found these to be the locations of the crags. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
[Hide Photo] Based on approach descriptions, I've found these to be the locations of the crags. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends at the tree above his head at the skyline.
[Hide Photo] Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends at the tree above his head at the skyline.
Past the crux.<br>
The Yardstik (5.11+).
[Hide Photo] Past the crux. The Yardstik (5.11+).
Dan Wright at Vallicito.
[Hide Photo] Dan Wright at Vallicito.
The gorgeous view from the top of the vertical wall.
[Hide Photo] The gorgeous view from the top of the vertical wall.
Lucas on Frequent Flyer, May 2016.
[Hide Photo] Lucas on Frequent Flyer, May 2016.
Lucas on Frequent Flyer, May 2016.
[Hide Photo] Lucas on Frequent Flyer, May 2016.
The signage has changed. The sign no longer states "Berri ATV" at the top of the sign.
[Hide Photo] The signage has changed. The sign no longer states "Berri ATV" at the top of the sign.
Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penthouse is the top most cliff band and the multi-pitch slabs are on the right side. The Trundle Wall is hidden from view in the gully.
[Hide Photo] Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penthouse is the top most cliff band and the multi-pitch slabs are on the right side. The Trundle Wall is hidden from view in the gully.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bmo
durango, co
[Hide Comment] The directions could use a little more description, you branch off the Berry Park Trail almost immediately, we missed it due to lots of leaves on the ground and wandered around in the woods for a while. Dec 13, 2011
Dylan Weldin
Ramstein, DE
[Hide Comment] Google map link directly to the talus field below the wall: maps.google.com/?ll=37.4793… maps.google.com/?ll=37.4793….

I'm heading up there this weekend for my first time and will report back with photos/ driving directions/ approach instructions. Apr 18, 2012
ozman
CO / NM
[Hide Comment] Jump off of the Berry ATV trail after about 150 feet onto a footpath on the right. It's a nice trail down the ridgeline. Somebody put nice cairns all the way to the vertical wall. It helps funnel traffic on a trail and keeps people from getting lost. Thanks.

This area is great. May 7, 2012
Dylan Weldin
Ramstein, DE
[Hide Comment] Fort Lewis College Climbing Club put cairns in last spring. If you park at the right switchback, you shouldn't be able to miss the approach. Enjoy!

High Times cairn.


The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts right following the ridge line.
Oct 9, 2012
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] It's cool that these are bolted into real routes now. I remember doing these in the early 1980s. John Duran and friends had done a bunch of climbing on this wall previous to taking me there. It's funny how having bolts to follow somehow makes the climbing better. We used to just look for the cleanest line and avoid making climbing into easy territory. Of course, we were into big runouts at that time, so no bolts was a plus. Jun 17, 2014
[Hide Comment] I think it's worth noting that most of the Penthouse climbs are in fact quite easily toproped and being shorter in nature are actually quite fun to solo toprope. Cheers May 22, 2015
Zeb
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] The start of the trail is here: 37.479825,-107.530124. Jun 22, 2020
Pat Goodman
Fayetteville, WV
[Hide Comment] I spent the summer of 1995 living in Vallecito with Seth Roberts at his grandparents' cabin. During that time, we climbed a fair bit at what are now called High Times, Trundle, and Vertical Walls. Around that time, I chatted with John Duran about bolting some routes at Vertical Wall. He suggested we could just TR them and keep the wall clean, which made a lot of sense at the time. That same year I saw some images of Todd Skinner lead climbing routes at Hueco Tanks with knots tied in a taut fixed line (in lieu of fixed hardware), so we applied those tactics to the Vertical Wall, I recall it being quite fun. Dec 23, 2022