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Routes in Byrd's

Angel Dust T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B-Team Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Byrd's Classic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freebase T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Justice for Rodney T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scrubby Oaks Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,548 total · 30/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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P1. Climb up the corner and traverse left below a roof or take the wide-hand crack direct start (5.9). Follow the crack system to below another roof and traverse right. Finish up with a short splitter to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

P2. From the tree on the belay ledge, move left and climb the unprotected face. This pitch in seldom done.


Start left of the Watch Crystal and Apple Cider in a corner near a large tree.


Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot.

  • Bring an extra hand-sized cam if doing the direct start.
Why has no one put up a bolted anchor at the top of this route? I've always seen people on it, so it gets the traffic that it deserves, but the absence of chains at the top makes it extremely hard to clean for a TR. I know TR'ing at East A is "Lame", but you got to learn some how. Mar 6, 2011
Durango, CO
IanA   Durango, CO
There has been a bolt anchor installed on two different occasions over the last 10 years, but someone in the community seems to take it upon themselves to chop it. I do agree that a bolted belay is no necessary since you can equalize the tree and a #3 Camalot, but it would be convenient to not have to walk over to either "Angel Dust" or "No Justice for Rodney." Most of all a bolted belay would ensure that we don't kill the poor tree that has suffered abuse for the sake of our recreational enjoyment. Mar 9, 2011
Kevin Sainio
Durango, CO
Kevin Sainio   Durango, CO
I totally agree with a bolted anchor. Most other climbs at EA have a bolted anchor. I don't see how this goes against any kind of "ethic". Save the tree! Mar 28, 2011
Lee Frazer
Durango, CO
Lee Frazer   Durango, CO
I agree. Let's save the tree. Jun 3, 2011
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
I agree with adding a bolt anchor to this thing. It's a quality route and gets a good amount of traffic. Jul 12, 2011
Devin Fin
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Hi, very proud an strong climbing community my name is Devin Finuane.... I have called East A my home TRAD zone for 20 years and love it!!!! On 8/22/12 I put some bomber rap rings left of the tree that has seen far far to much wear... if you got a problem with that, let me know and I will have a smart conversation with you ... hell I even buy you a beer ... please don't chop...this line is sick and needs an anchor..... Let that tree grow free, brothers and sisters. Thanks. The bolts are hand drilled 6 inch 5 pice Rawls glued in with epoxy and well out of sight. Aug 23, 2012
Thanks for taking the time, Devin!
Hopefully people will leave them alone. Sep 3, 2012
samtoine Antoine
New York, NY
samtoine Antoine   New York, NY
Thank you, Devin, and great job with the moss! Sep 14, 2012
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
Anybody know who did the FA on this one? Oct 14, 2017
John Hayes II
John Hayes II  
It is tricky to setup a good TR for this route. Even for a follower cleaning lead gear, the anchor at the top should certainly come over the edge as visible in a photo, or you're in for rope drag. Otherwise, a directional at the second roof is highly recommended. Aug 29, 2018

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