|GPS:||37.456, -107.804 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||26,910 total · 503/month|
|Shared By:||eli poss on Mar 11, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I don't know how the landowner feels about us climbing on the main cliff, but his/her actions or lack thereof lead me to believe that he/she doesn't seem to have much of a problem with climbers. We should, however, try to make sure it stays this way.
This means NOT blocking the dirt road with our vehicles as multiple landowners depend on this road to go to and from their homes. Additionally we need to be mindful that people reside within earshot of the cliff. Please consider leaving the speakers at home and think twice before shouting obscenities.
Per Ian Altman: 416 FIRE CLOSURE UPDATE:
The Michelle Lakes Road is closed, and a very large ticket would be issued to anyone driving or parking on the road. You can't miss the very large sign right at the entrance. However, according to FS personnel, we are legally permitted to walk on the road until a point well past the wall and climb on the wall itself. We cannot park anywhere near the traditional parking and will have to park along the Old Shalona Road. Please be respectful of these limits!
The cliff gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The base of the cliff is in the trees and stays pretty shady. Fall is probably the best time to climb here. Temperatures in the Spring are pleasant, but the rock tends to be a little dirty. Summer afternoons in the shade can be comfortable as well.
There are currently three distinct sections of the cliff, although a few of the more difficult lines lie between these areas.
1) Low Angle Wall
This is where the most popular routes are, and contains these routes from left to right: Bad Math (5.10) through Misfit(5.9).
2) Fume Wall Right
These are the routes to the right of the fence. They include (L to R): Route 0.5 (5.8) through Wasted Asparagus (5.7+).
3) Fume Wall North
This is the newest area to be developed, and contains The Spire and the face behind it. Routes are still in the process of being added to this area.
All routes are equipped with fixed hardware for lowering at the anchors, and at least one route has a perma-draw. Please do not remove any hardware from the cliff, as it is all there for a reason, and the developers have spent much of their own time and money to equip these routes. If you have an issue with the existing hardware, please get in contact with Ian Altman or myself, and we can have a productive conversation about it.
Routes listing (L->R)
A. Bad Math, 10, 1p, bolts.
B. Nine Lives, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Child's Play, 6, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. Nice Jugs, 8, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. The Undercling, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Hoods in the Woods, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
G. PWI, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
H. C.T.A. Route, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
I. Rookie Hook, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.
J. Psycho Billy Cadillac, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.
K. Sally's Pocket, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
L. Beginner's Luck, 7, 1p, 55', bolts.
M. Euro Pants, 8, 1p, 55', bolts
N. Misfit, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
Fume Wall Right
A. Route 0.5, 8, 1p, 40', bolts
B. Route 1, 9+, 1p, 40', bolts.
C. Route 1.5, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Route 2, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Route 3, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Wasted Asparagus, 7, 1p, 65', bolts.
? Under Overhangland, 12.
Fume Wall North
P-Diddy, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Fume Wall
Days w Precip