Access Issue: The main cliff is on private property. Be respectful. Also, 416 Fire Closure Update. Details

Description

This small crag hosts a handful of sport routes. The rock can be slick and dirty, especially after periods of rain or after spring runoff. Many of the routes are still in the process of being cleaned and should improve with time. Climbing here is incredibly convenient as it is close to the road and requires basically no approach. There are mostly moderate routes, making this a good place for novice leaders.

The cliff gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The base of the cliff is in the trees and stays pretty shady. Fall is probably the best time to climb here. Temperatures in the Spring are pleasant, but the rock tends to be a little dirty. Summer afternoons in the shade can be comfortable as well.

There are currently three distinct sections of the cliff, although a few of the more difficult lines lie between these areas.

1) Low Angle Wall
This is where the most popular routes are, and contains these routes from left to right: Bad Math (5.10) through Misfit(5.9).

2) Fume Wall Right
These are the routes to the right of the fence. They include (L to R): Route 0.5 (5.8) through Wasted Asparagus (5.7+).

3) Fume Wall North
This is the newest area to be developed, and contains The Spire and the face behind it. Routes are still in the process of being added to this area.

Getting There

From Durango, head north on US 550 for about 12 miles, take the right turn off the highway (CR250) and park in a small dirt parking area. Hike back under the highway to the climbing area.

Fixed Hardware

Please don't steal the fixed hardware.

All routes are equipped with fixed hardware for lowering at the anchors, and at least one route has a perma-draw. Please do not remove any hardware from the cliff, as it is all there for a reason, and the developers have spent much of their own time and money to equip these routes. If you have an issue with the existing hardware, please get in contact with Ian Altman or myself, and we can have a productive conversation about it.

Routes listing (L->R)

Low Angle Wall
A. Bad Math, 10, 1p, bolts.
B. Nine Lives, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Child's Play, 6, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. Nice Jugs, 8, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. The Undercling, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Hoods in the Woods, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
G. PWI, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
H. C.T.A. Route, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
I. Rookie Hook, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.
J. Psycho Billy Cadillac, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.
K. Sally's Pocket, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
L. Beginner's Luck, 7, 1p, 55', bolts.
M. Euro Pants, 8, 1p, 55', bolts
N. Misfit, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.

fence

Fume Wall Right
A. Route 0.5, 8, 1p, 40', bolts
B. Route 1, 9+, 1p, 40', bolts.
C. Route 1.5, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Route 2, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Route 3, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Wasted Asparagus, 7, 1p, 65', bolts.

? Under Overhangland, 12.

Fume Wall North
P-Diddy, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fume Wall

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Photos

Limestone crag with highway noise. CR 250 turnoff is 2 mi N of Honeyville (0.5 mi N of mile marker 35). From US 550, it is 0.2 mi to intersection, then 0.1 mi left on CR 250 North to where Forest Service access road 740 leaves pavement. From there, ~5 minute walk W on dirt road through underpass to Low Angle Wall, passing No Trespassing signs. Prominent sign by Low Angle Wall identifies it as private property (IanA states Fume Wall Right is in CO DOT right-of-way and therefore open to public; same for Low Angle Wall?). Jul 14, 2016
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
To clarify:
According to La Plata County's public GIS property maps, the main cliff (low angle cliff) is on private property. The area to the right of the fence with the unnamed climbs and Wasted Asparagus belongs to CDOT, as does the rest of the cliff band to the north including the under overhangland area, the spire, and the area around the spire.

I don't know how the landowner feels about us climbing on the main cliff, but his/her actions or lack thereof lead me to believe that he/she doesn't seem to have much of a problem with climbers. We should, however, try to make sure it stays this way.

This means NOT blocking the dirt road with our vehicles as multiple landowners depend on this road to go to and from their homes. Additionally we need to be mindful that people reside within earshot of the cliff. Please consider leaving the speakers at home and think twice before shouting obscenities. Jul 20, 2016
So I found some climbing gear that was left behind at the parking area on Sunday. I decided to grab it since it was sitting in the rain, and there were no other cars there, so if you lost some gear leave a description of the gear, and hopefully I can get it back to the owner! Sorry if you came back to look for it, I wasn't sure how honest the next people to come by it would be. Jul 24, 2017
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
Hey, I think I may have accidently left an alpine draw and my climbing shoes here last Friday. It was a pair of Scarpa Vapor laces. If you happen to find them, I'd love my climbing shoes back, but keep the alpine draw as booty. I'm happy to buy you some beer or something for the shoes. PM me on here or shoot me a text at (423) 504-7813. Oct 15, 2017
Ben Calvert
Golden, CO
Ben Calvert   Golden, CO
I left a draw on the Low Angle Wall on 1/17/18. If you happen to grab it, I'd greatly appreciate its return. You can reach me at 203.520.0475. I'm down the road in Hermosa and can come grab it or whatever is easiest for you. Thanks much! -Ben Jan 19, 2018