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Areas in Tahquitz Rock

(a) Northeast Buttress 9 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
(b) North Face 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
(c) The North Buttress 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
(d) Northwest Recess 19 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
(e) Maiden Buttress 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
(f) West Face Bulge Routes 17 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 18
(g) West Face 63 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 64
(h) Open Book Area 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
(i) South Face 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
(j) Summit Block 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

Tahquitz Rock is the larger of the two crags above the town of Idyllwild and offers primarily traditional climbing from one to seven pitches in length.

Please note this is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

The Legend of Tahquitz

Weather Webcam

Getting There

See the overview directions on how to reach Humber Park. Once at Humber Park locate the start of the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, which starts just past the Adventure Pass sign at a sharp left-hand turn. Follow the trail as it descends a small hill, makes a horseshoe bend and crosses a seasonal stream before leveling out and heading south. A few hundred yards down the trail you'll encounter a climber sign-in box, from which the climber's trail splits off and ascends the steep hillside to the base of Tahquitz. Plan on 30-60 minutes for the approach depending upon your degree of fitness and which portion of the rock you're aiming for.

Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

187 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tahquitz Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 215
White Maiden's Walkaway
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 247
Left Ski Track
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 420
Fingertrip
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 220
The Long Climb
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 123
Wong Climb
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 296
Traitor Horn
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
Upper Royal's Arch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 222
Coffin Nail
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 348
Open Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 310
Whodunit
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 96
The Consolation
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 185
Dave's Deviation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 196
El Camino Real
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 139
Super Pooper
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 145
The Vampire
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Maiden's Walkaway (e) Maiden Buttress
 215
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 6 pitches
Left Ski Track (i) S Face > S Face - Left Side
 247
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Fingertrip (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 420
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
The Long Climb (d) Northwest Recess
 220
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Wong Climb (d) Northwest Recess
 123
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Traitor Horn (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 296
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Upper Royal's Arch (g) W Face > W Face - Left Side
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Coffin Nail (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 222
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Open Book (h) Open Book Area
 348
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Whodunit (d) Northwest Recess
 310
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
The Consolation (d) Northwest Recess
 96
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Dave's Deviation (g) W Face > W Face - Left Side
 185
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
El Camino Real (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 196
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Super Pooper (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 139
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Vampire (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 145
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Tahquitz Rock »

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Photos

Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing. Feb 12, 2008
There are few sights in California climbing more exciting than your first view of Tahquitz Rock. I still remember driving up early in the morning. I was still a young teen punk and the morning mist hung low. The first glimpse we really got was the view of the open book from the town. On the one hand it cries out: "come and get me!" On the other hand you can't help but remember all the historical figures that first cut their teeth here. You must look at and approach this place with a certain degree of respect and awe. I miss it so much! Mar 19, 2009
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
Climbers, please stick to this trail in accessing the climbs on northwest, west, and south sides of Tahquitz so that erosion damage can be minimized. And encourage your friends to do likewise. May 4, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Tahquitz: the early years from Summit, June 1976. Aug 4, 2009
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Tahquitz FA list in chronological order (not that it matters to anyone but I was curious). If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.

1. The Trough 5.4, 8/36
2. Angel's Fright 5.6, 9/36
3. Fingertip Traverse 5.3, 9/36
4. Piton Pooper 5.7, 9/36
5. White Maiden's Walkway 5.4, 8/37
6. Mechanic's Route 5.8R, 10/37
7. Jensen's Jaunt 5.6, 8/38
8. From Bad Traverse 5.6, 9/39
9. Northeast Rib 5.0 10/40
10. Traitor Horn 5.8, 1941
11. Sahara Terror 5.7, 7/42
12. Fingertrip 5.7, 9/46
13. Fingergrip 5.8, 6/47
14. Left Ski Track 5.6, 9/47
15. The Open Book 5.9, 9/47
16. Climb With No Beginning 5.6, 5/50
17. Swing Sling Traverse 5.9 9/51 Oct 3, 2011
ciotti
CA
ciotti   CA
nice list jim, it would be cool to see them all in order. what about suicide rock? Apr 26, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Agreed great list Jim - puts a new perspective on things. One often doesn't see the FA list published like this in US guidebooks, but it was a standard practice in the UK CC guidebooks and often included historical comments form the first ascents. Aug 27, 2012
ciotti
CA
ciotti   CA
nice list Jim. I would love to see the list build from here and see one on suicide too. Nov 8, 2012
Toby960  
Best climbing day there in a while!

Heres my trip report;

theloveaffairwithgravity.bl…


Climb on! Jun 17, 2013
After poking around a bit looking for the friction descent, my partner and I just went up and over the top and down into the notch, where there is an easy-to-follow trail down the south face. This was extremely casual (almost no exposure, and just a few 3rd class steps down), and it's hard to imagine it added more than 10 minutes to the descent. Highly recommended if you don't know where the friction descent is or don't like the sound of it. Jun 30, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I agree with you Phil. I've done both quite a few times and much prefer the scramble to the notch, especially if I have a newbie with me. Jul 10, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I've heard this pronounced "Tah-keetz" and "Tah-quits." I've read that the Native Americans pronounce it Tah-keetz but I've heard climbers call it Tah-quits. Which is it? Apr 14, 2016
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
Eee-ther pronunciation is correct. Or is it, aye-ther? You could just call it Lily Rock, which is another name for it.

(I've heard people insist that it's pronounced Tah-keets, but don't think it matters) Apr 15, 2016
C Miller   CA  
The Legend of Tahquitz Apr 15, 2016
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
Hi Frank,

The Cahuilla pronunciation is Tah-kwish. The modern english is Tah-keetz. Apr 19, 2016
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
Thanks, Colin. Apr 24, 2016
Surely the approach to the routes can stir up a gut and be very effective in helping the bowels move. I don't want to sound like the poop police or go on a rant as Guideline # 3 says not to, but crap, this must be dealt with.

We began in the cool of a July morning and sprinted up the Trough. By the time we came down, it was warm and the air was similar to a porta potty at the county fair. It would have been bad enough if it were in one area, but between Fingertips and the Trough there were several areas with distinct outhouse smells and hordes of flies.

If you need to crap, good for you. I'm happy. Do it. We wish you the best and will celebrate your success. Just don't do it anywhere near the base of the route. Please go down the hill, out of site, dig a decent hole and enjoy the view as you do the doo-doo.

There probably are not enough climbers on Tahquitz to overwhelm the place, but if we are not careful we'll get rangers checking for wag bags and such. Plus, it is just plain unpleasant, unsanitary and uncool to belay with that evil feces smell wafting around. It's just a load of crap we don't need at such a great climbing area.

Wish this was scratch and sniff to make my point. It was nasty.

Please use the head at Humber, use proper poop etiquette, or jam the crack with a .5 Cam. Jul 6, 2016
Drew L
Oceanside, Ca
Drew L   Oceanside, Ca
Hey Everyone!

I just wanted to remind everyone to be careful of hollow flakes and loose blocks at Tahquitz. There are many spots on the moderate climbs on the West Bulge and West Face which have loose blocks where the terrain kicks backs to more broken sections. Its always important to be extra careful in these sections, both with your hands/feet and your rope. Never forget to consider there are likely people climbing below you or at the base of the wall.

Climb safe folks, and have fun! Oct 4, 2016
I found a rain jacket that someone left by left ski track on 7/9/17, email me with the description and I can send it your way!
grace7g@gmail.com Jul 10, 2017
One thing that became evident with the Coffin Nail incident a couple of weeks ago is that there is no longer a Stokes Litter (or even the backboard) at Lunch Rock any more.

That needs to get replaced! If the Cal Fire helicopter had not been available, or one had been necessary to get to a pick point, that would have turned into an epic! (as if a carry out with a basket isn't epic enough!) Jul 30, 2018

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