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Routes in The Witch

Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ankles Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Innersanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Lechlinksi, Gilje, & Gingery
Page Views: 1,444 total, 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Phosphorescent Flow takes the right arete of the huge buttress on the lower west face of the Witch. This buttress has Gorilla Warfare on its left side and The Pit and the Pendulum to the right. Spot a first and second bolt way the heck up there...

Getting past these first two bolts is quite terrifying -- you're looking at certain injury and possibly worse if you blow it, but the climbing is really good and the holds are all positive. A great approach/warm up to the harder climbs on the upper south face of the Witch.

It is possible to rap to various anchors with a single 70m rope to get down from this long pitch.

Protection

Draws, plus a few finger-sized cams to protect some of the runouts in the middle section of the route.

Photos

Sustained face climbing, and surely a hair-raising lead! Can be toproped easily with a 70m cord. From the P1 anchor of Witch Doctor, make a short rap to the belay/rap bolts for Phosphorescent Flow. The 70m rope will just barely reach the starting ledge, so tie some stopper knots in the ends! Jul 2, 2012
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
This climb is heady, but never frightening. You must make one move high above the first bolt, and the climbing is fairly continuous 5.9/10a until there. Eases up quite a bit after that; I amused myself with some knob tie-offs that were pretty worthless. Incredible rock, beautiful line. Jun 10, 2010
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
In it's original form, this climb was always a favorite of mine. The bolts were in the perfect places protecting the harder moves. When GV rebolted it he removed the originals, and increased the count with bolts in new locations. Then some gents I know went and chopped enough of GV's new bolts to bring the count back down to 3 (I think that was the original number) but they were not in the correct places any more. I know, 'cause I went and did it and the harder moves were not well protected, as they were. Unless this has been remedied since then, the route cannot be said to be in it's original condition.

This whole episode is unfortunate, imo. Feb 19, 2008
Pat Nay  
Mari Gingery did the FA of this route.

Greg Vernon rebolted it with chicken bolts, but they were removed and it is now in it's original condition. Jan 17, 2007