Elevation: 7,495 ft
GPS: 33.76, -116.685 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,506 total · 366/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

The Upper Bulge of Tahquitz, a large tooth-shaped section of rock starting midway up the rock, appears from afar as smooth and mostly featureless, and while not entirely true it's home to some of the more difficult, sustained and classic routes on Tahquitz. While routes on the Upper Bulge are shorter in nature, averaging 3 to 4 pitches in length, the exposed nature of the climbing gives an exposed feeling not found on many of the other routes at Tahquitz.

Stretching from the right edge of the Maiden Buttress to the Royal's Arches Area this section of Tahquitz is packed with quality routes including Super Pooper (5.10a), The Price of Fear (5.10c), The Vampire (5.11a), The Flakes (5.11c), and Stairway to Heaven (5.12a).

Getting There

Routes on the Upper Bulge can be approached by any of several different methods:

  • For The Step, Le Toit, Le Toilette or Super Pooper start up The Trough and cut left via From Bad Traverse (5.6) to reach the left side of the Bulge and From Bad Traverse (FBT) Ledge.
  • For The Flakes, Stairway to Heaven, The Price of Fear and The Happy Hooker (or if avoiding the 1st pitch of the Vampire) start up The Trough and midway along the traverse head up a clean left-facing corner system (5.7) to reach Vampire Ledge which is located directly below the center of the Bulge.
  • For The Pharaoh, The Vampire, The Bat and any of the routes on the right side of the Bulge start up The Trough and then head straight up at the start of From Bad Traverse along the right side of a steep, smooth buttress with the curving crack of The Pharaoh a good landmark.
  • As an alternative climb one of the Lower Bulge Routes and modify the approach accordingly.

See the individual route descriptions for more detailed approach information.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Bulge Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 4
Step to Super Pooper Traverse
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
The Step
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 178
Super Pooper
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 90
The Price of Fear
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 199
The Vampire
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 46
The Flakes
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
The Crucifix
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 7
The Bat
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Field of Dreams
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Le Toit
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 10
Stairway to Heaven
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 5
The Pharaoh
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Step to Super Pooper Traverse
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Step
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Super Pooper
 178
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Price of Fear
 90
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Vampire
 199
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
The Flakes
 46
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
The Crucifix
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Bat
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Field of Dreams
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Le Toit
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Stairway to Heaven
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
The Pharaoh
 5
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Upper Bulge Routes »

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