Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (e) South Face

10b or not 10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crucifiction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disco Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hades T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell's Angel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
It's a Mayracole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Minor T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Minuet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miscalculation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palm Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Picante T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Story T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Cleaning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Erickson et al 1978
Page Views: 2,468 total, 17/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a fantastic face route on right side of the South Face. It starts via a thin crack (5.10 or a one bolt face variation at 5.11a) on the front side of a big detached block to a bolted belay. The crux P2 takes a tough move through an undercling to a bolt, from here one can go left and do Crucifiction (5.11d), another bolt and a right leaning undercling/flake. From here a bolt leads to a very dicey highstep/mantel on a knob before finishing at a bolted belay. P3 adopts similar face moves through three bolts with another 5.11a move about halfway up. P2 and P3 can be combined, but when we did it in three due to the continuously tough climbing. Edging shoes are a must! Highly Recommended

Protection

Bolts and thin pro.
Tradiban  
 
In decent temps this is just a solid 11b, most hard off the P1 belay. Great moves the whole way, I didn't find the knob step dicey at all. Also, we did the short layback on the left side for P1, I feel like that was the best way to start.

Put a gray BD in the underling of P2 but it wasn't really needed and went left at the top to the anchors for Crucifixion, one 70m rap to P1 anchors and another short rap to the ground. Sep 24, 2017
Tradiban  
 
P1 doesn't seem 10c, pretty damn easy, maybe I'm missing something? Anyway it's trivial compared to the rest I guess. I couldn't do it clean but on the start of P2 I was just left of the belay and found a 3 finger dime edge that's very hidden in white rock, took me a few tries to even see it, I was able to crimp friggin hard and bring my left foot up to a nice nub, there's another nice nub at the same height for the right foot. Good luck. I will be back in some cold temps for a clean go. Nov 28, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
Darrell is THE master at edging over there at Suicide, so his definition of "easy" or "hard" has to be taken in the context of his virtuoso skill level. That being said, I must agree that the single most difficult section of the climb is the super thin edging right off the belay at the start of P2. The mantle up higher on the "Black Potato" is really hard, too, because the myriad tiny edges that make it go are so hard to find. A "trick" is to press all your tips together like a cliffhanger and pimp this down hard with that row of short fingernails (you'll need some short nails for this to work) into the back of even the tiniest edge, then plant those feet hard and pull straight down on the edges. Bingo and up you go! I've even resorted to tossing a bit of powdered chalk up on the face, and where ever that dust would gather on microedges I'd see the holds. You will not stand a chance on the thin edges at Suicide without a shrink-wrap fitting edging boot...period. Isolating body parts while freezing all the others is also key here...and 5.11 "face" anything at Suicide is going to seem impossible compared to sport routes of similar grades at other crags, so work up through the grades by starting on the Weeping Wall or the Sunshine Face and tick off the 5.10's first. Good Luck Aug 11, 2014
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
I have to second Luke on this--the starting moves do feel incredibly hard (and sharp!); much harder than the rest of the route. I pulled up on the first bolt and had no more issues, going straight up with a slight left at the overlap, making it 5.11+ A0. Jun 10, 2010
No major holds have broken off. The starting moves on P2 are just left of the belay (close). They do angle up and left a little as one goes, looking to get to the obvious undercling on the flake. Jun 20, 2009
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
I heard that some holds have broken on this route... Is this true?

The starting moves of P2 seem impossible. Do you have to go way right or way left from the belay? Jun 19, 2009
By all means, combine pitches 2 and 3. Breaking them apart results in two very short pitches, reducing the challenge significantly. When combining the two pitches long runners on bolts 2, 4, and 5 will almost completely eliminate any rope drag. Not using long runners will result in rope drag. Aug 12, 2008