Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Geoff Archer and Kai Buskirk, December 1989
Page Views: 940 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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A great face climb up the center of the wall with good rock and engaging moves. Protection is enough to call this a sport climb.

Originally rated 5.11a, some broken holds at the crux have bumped the grade up a few notches. The climbing tends to be more or less vertical with the crux involving thin edges and technical footwork.


8 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Worth noting that one of the bolts, I believe its the second, is missing the hanger. May be sporting a hitched nut. Nov 10, 2003
Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
I left a wired stopper with a locking biner on the hangerless bolt a couple of years ago but I have been told it is no longer there. This route would deserve more stars if the rock was better quality at the crux. Nov 10, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
I'll add a hanger next time I'm out there if needed. Agreed about the rock quality - that's one reason holds broke off at the crux. Nov 10, 2003
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
still missing the 2nd hanger. Sorry I didn't read this page before I hiked up or I would have replaced it. nut (for the bolt, not a wired nut) still on the stud and moves freely, so it should be fixable with just a hanger and a crescent wrench. Or, sling the stud with a wired nut.

Some of the route was really nice, but the snapped holds at the crux are quite obvious, a large amount of orange scars, really took away from the quality of the route. Feb 26, 2010
  5.11d PG13
fubar   Babylon
  5.11d PG13
Also worth noting that this feels hard for the grade, in addition to having to bust 5.10+ moves above the hangerless bolt. Aside from the direct start holds (you could also step off a boulder) nothing felt too loose. It might have all broken off by now...but it's definitely harder than 5.11a. Very technical and elaborate movement with a distinct crux section. Jan 4, 2013