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Yellow Brick Road

5.11c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 8 votes
FA: Geoff Archer and Kai Buskirk, December 1989
California > Joshua Tree NP > Pinto Basin > OZ Area > OZ. > Emerald City
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

A great face climb up the center of the wall with good rock and engaging moves. Protection is enough to call this a sport climb.

Originally rated 5.11a, some broken holds at the crux have bumped the grade up a few notches. The climbing tends to be more or less vertical with the crux involving thin edges and technical footwork.

Protection

8 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Richard Horst on Yellow Brick Road, Emerald City, J Tree.
[Hide Photo] Richard Horst on Yellow Brick Road, Emerald City, J Tree.
"Yellow Brick Road".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Yellow Brick Road". Photo by Blitzo.
Anchor, which now seems to be missing one bolt. It's pretty easy to build a gear anchor a few feet away
[Hide Photo] Anchor, which now seems to be missing one bolt. It's pretty easy to build a gear anchor a few feet away
Erik Eriksson on "Yellow Brick Road".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.<br>
[Hide Photo] Erik Eriksson on "Yellow Brick Road". Photo by Blitzo.
"Yellow Brick Road".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Yellow Brick Road". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Worth noting that one of the bolts, I believe its the second, is missing the hanger. May be sporting a hitched nut. Nov 10, 2003
Vernon Stiefel
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I left a wired stopper with a locking biner on the hangerless bolt a couple of years ago but I have been told it is no longer there. This route would deserve more stars if the rock was better quality at the crux. Nov 10, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Agreed about the rock quality - that's one reason holds broke off at the crux. Nov 10, 2003
fubar
Babylon
  5.11d PG13
[Hide Comment] Also worth noting that this feels hard for the grade, in addition to having to bust 5.10+ moves above the hangerless bolt. Aside from the direct start holds (you could also step off a boulder) nothing felt too loose. It might have all broken off by now...but it's definitely harder than 5.11a. Very technical and elaborate movement with a distinct crux section. Jan 4, 2013