Elevation: 8,454 ft
GPS: 40.403, -105.518 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 800,279 total · 3,482/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

I hesitate to write about Lumpy, I grew up spending my summers in Estes Park and started my climbing career 7 years ago at Lumpy. Since then, I have seen it grow immensely in popularity and is headed the way of Eldo (i.e. crowded as hell); however, this growth is mainly from the weekend warriors, on the weekday climbing is more reasonable.

Lumpy is awesome, the climbs are moderately long, two to five pitches on average, and take place in a spectacular setting with views of Longs and RMNP. The climbs are spread out on a number of unique formations, the most popular being The Book. Sundance, far at the end of the ridge, is the tallest cliff at 700-800' and has awesome classic climbing with a long approach that deters the lazier climbers.

The climbing at Lumpy is interesting. I have always felt it to be quite stiff. Pushing the grades here in the 5.10 and 5.11 range often requires fiddling with tricky pro on less than vertical flared cracks while fighting a heinous calf pump. The pitches tend to be full length and take place on highly technical granite that requires solid footwork. There aren't too many beginner climbs here, Lumpy climbing is concentrated in the 5.9-5.11 range. That said there are a few classic outings in the 5.5-5.8 range. These include:

Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7, this is a good, although not classic climb), Batman and Robin (5.6, great beginner climb or first lead), White Whale and Hiatus (5.7, totally classic), Kor's Flake (5.8, longer route), Osiris (5.8, you will either love or hate this "wider" climb), Melvin's Wheel (.8+, great climb), Pear Buttress (.8+, best 5.8 on the Ridge), Cackle Crack (5.8, short).

Climbing in the 5.9-5.10 range opens up tons of classics, these are a very few. J-Crack (.9, spicy with a runout 5.8 traverse, time tested classic), Loose Ends (.9 awesome), George's Tree (.9, very typical Lumpy climbing), Mainliner (.9-, DO THIS CLIMB), Orange Julius (.10a, varied climbing), Climb of the Ancient Mariner (.10a classic face), Fat City (.10+ famous classic, a sandbag), Cheap Date (.10a) and Outlander (.10+), great finish to routes like Pear Buttress and J-Crack ), Gollum's Arch (.10a, sandbagged and sustained with many different sizes on it). In the 5.11 range, almost every route is good, yet many are tricky to protect as they are thin seams and faint features. Stretch Marks (.11a, a little scary), Living Dead (.11b, very finicky protection), Backbone Arete (.11c, a well bolted yet very hard slab), Finger Lickin' Good (.11a), Corner Pump Station (.11c). I haven't done these two, yet they, obviously belong on this list.

For those with minimal time to spare, Little Twin Owls has good toproping with a classic Finger Crack (.11) that should not be missed. There is good bouldering just before Little Twin Owls, and just after the turnoff for The Book. Two good routes for the solid .10 trad leader are on Checkerboard Rock, a fifteen minute approach. These climbs are Ziggy's Day Out (.10+) and Checkerboard Crack (.10b), both these routes are short and require a lot of skill at placing pro. Checkerboard Crack is classic Lumpy climbing, flared, insecure, sustained, and very hard to protect.

Getting There

Take US 36 to Estes Park. At the intersection of US 36 and US 34 in Estes Park, turn North onto E Wonderview. Pass the Stanley Hotel on the right, then turn right onto MacGregor Ave., which becomes Devil's Gulch Rd. at a sharp bend right. 1/2 mile later, turn left onto Lumpy Ridge Rd. (there's a good sign for this), and park in the lot at the end.

The new trailhead will be located east of the Twin Owls Trailhead just off MacGregor Ave. The gravel access road lies just west of the Gem Lake Trailhead. This will result in an additional 0.7 miles to formations west of Twin Owls. This will shorten access to crags east of Twin Owls. Happy hiking.

Trail Realignment

There appears to be a line of cord uphill/north of the old Black Canyon Trail. It is likely the new trail location as part of the changes to be made with the land deal swap/reversal of easements (which includes the new parking lot to the east). Now, the fences have moved (as of 2009).

New Trailhead

There is a new, 100-car, paved trailhead for Lumpy Ridge. The old Twin Owls trailhead is in the process of being reverted closer to its former state. The new trailhead adds on 0.6 miles to routes from Twin Owls and west (Batman, Book, Pear, Sundance, etc.) Note, for those new to the area, the trail listed as Black Canyon Trail is used to access The Book, The Pear, Sundance etc.) The water source at the old Twin Owls lots is still on as of 7/07.

Obscure bit

This was called Thataa-ai-atah by Arapaho Indians which means "little lumps".

Dogs

No dogs allowed off the pavement. It is a National Park.

403 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lumpy Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 313
Kor's Flake
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 499
Pear Buttress
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 301
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel a…
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Wolf's Tooth
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 230
Loose Ends
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 284
Mainliner
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Sidetrack
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 109
Conan's Gonads (Conad's)
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 262
J-Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 102
Climb of the Ancient Mariner
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 200
Cheap Date
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
Romulan Territory
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Turnkorner
Trad 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 176
Fat City Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 85
Outlander
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kor's Flake Sundance Buttress
 313
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Pear Buttress Book > J-Crack Slab Area
 499
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh… Bookmark
 301
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Wolf's Tooth Twin Owls
 93
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Loose Ends Book > J-Crack Slab Area
 230
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Mainliner Sundance Buttress
 284
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Sidetrack Sundance Buttress
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) Twin Owls
 109
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
J-Crack Book > J-Crack Slab Area
 262
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Climb of the Ancient Mariner Bookend
 102
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Cheap Date Book > Pages Wall Area
 200
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Romulan Territory Bookmark
 76
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Turnkorner Sundance Buttress
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Fat City Crack Book > Pages Wall Area
 176
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Outlander Book > Pages Wall Area
 85
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
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