Lumpy Ridge Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.403, -105.518 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Lumpy is awesome, the climbs are moderately long, two to five pitches on average, and take place in a spectacular setting with views of Longs and RMNP. The climbs are spread out on a number of unique formations, the most popular being The Book. Sundance, far at the end of the ridge, is the tallest cliff at 700-800' and has awesome classic climbing with a long approach that deters the lazier climbers.
The climbing at Lumpy is interesting. I have always felt it to be quite stiff. Pushing the grades here in the 5.10 and 5.11 range often requires fiddling with tricky pro on less than vertical flared cracks while fighting a heinous calf pump. The pitches tend to be full length and take place on highly technical granite that requires solid footwork. There aren't too many beginner climbs here, Lumpy climbing is concentrated in the 5.9-5.11 range. That said there are a few classic outings in the 5.5-5.8 range. These include:
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7, this is a good, although not classic climb), Batman and Robin (5.6, great beginner climb or first lead), White Whale and Hiatus (5.7, totally classic), Kor's Flake (5.8, longer route), Osiris (5.8, you will either love or hate this "wider" climb), Melvin's Wheel (.8+, great climb), Pear Buttress (.8+, best 5.8 on the Ridge), Cackle Crack (5.8, short).
Climbing in the 5.9-5.10 range opens up tons of classics, these are a very few. J-Crack (.9, spicy with a runout 5.8 traverse, time tested classic), Loose Ends (.9 awesome), George's Tree (.9, very typical Lumpy climbing), Mainliner (.9-, DO THIS CLIMB), Orange Julius (.10a, varied climbing), Climb of the Ancient Mariner (.10a classic face), Fat City (.10+ famous classic, a sandbag), Cheap Date (.10a) and Outlander (.10+), great finish to routes like Pear Buttress and J-Crack ), Gollum's Arch (.10a, sandbagged and sustained with many different sizes on it). In the 5.11 range, almost every route is good, yet many are tricky to protect as they are thin seams and faint features. Stretch Marks (.11a, a little scary), Living Dead (.11b, very finicky protection), Backbone Arete (.11c, a well bolted yet very hard slab), Finger Lickin' Good (.11a), Corner Pump Station (.11c). I haven't done these two, yet they, obviously belong on this list.
For those with minimal time to spare, Little Twin Owls has good toproping with a classic Finger Crack (.11) that should not be missed. There is good bouldering just before Little Twin Owls, and just after the turnoff for The Book. Two good routes for the solid .10 trad leader are on Checkerboard Rock, a fifteen minute approach. These climbs are Ziggy's Day Out (.10+) and Checkerboard Crack (.10b), both these routes are short and require a lot of skill at placing pro. Checkerboard Crack is classic Lumpy climbing, flared, insecure, sustained, and very hard to protect.
The new trailhead will be located east of the Twin Owls Trailhead just off MacGregor Ave. The gravel access road lies just west of the Gem Lake Trailhead. This will result in an additional 0.7 miles to formations west of Twin Owls. This will shorten access to crags east of Twin Owls. Happy hiking.
Bats - conservation
See a bat on a route, give a shout. Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. If you see bats, and want to tell them, here is their email (email@example.com) and their website (climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).
Climbers for Bat Conservation is a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. They are interested in finding bats because a new disease, called white-nose syndrome (whitenosesyndrome.org/), has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation. If you see bats while climbing, please let them know by emailing them at firstname.lastname@example.org, or visiting their website to learn more (climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).
Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program (sites.warnercnr.colostate.e…)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Classic Climbing Routes at Lumpy Ridge
Days w Precip