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Routes in Diarrhea Dome - South Face

Big Brown Eye, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Explosive Diahrrea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manly Dike, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Svapada T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Description

The South Face of Diarrhea Dome is a large face which despite it's size is mostly hidden from view by other formations in front of it. Home to a handful of somewhat obscure routes, which see far less traffic than the popular Grotto routes nearby, you'll likely have the place to yourself on routes like Truly Snooty Furniture (5.10a) a face to corner system, The Big Brown Eye (5.11a) cracks to face which pass a curiously shaped dark hole in the rock, Svapada (5.11b) a technical face and The Manly Dike (5.12a) which climbs an impressive dike system which crosses the face left to right.

Getting There

Standard Wonderland approach past Freak Brothers Dome and stay in the main portion of the wash until Diarrhea Dome's south face comes into view; the distinctive Owl Pinnacle is a helpful landmark. When brush blocks the wash head east in another wash which leads to an apparent impasse (see ) which is bypassed by tunneling under or going left up and over slabs which leads into another wash heading north. When possible follow slabs on the right side of the wash up and over a small hill which will lead to the base of the dome. Plan on 45 minutes to 1 hour for the approach if all goes well.

4 Total Climbs

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Photos

fubar
Babylon
fubar   Babylon
Just a note on The Manly Dike: though well-bolted for Joshua Tree standards, a few of these bolts really are in need of replacement, particularly the first one. Granted, this adds an additional mental aspect to the route (which is pretty damn mental already!), but you could get pretty messed up if you pulled even one, and it's a long way out to hobble. Mar 3, 2009

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