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GPS: 40.4032, -105.5182
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the middle crag of series of 3 (more-or-less vertically aligned) crags just to the E of Twin Owls. Just below lies Triangle Rock, obvious from its shape viewed from the West. S. Kimball's guide describes these cliffs as 'undistinguished.' This crag is identified distinctively by its aesthetic, SW-facing, arching crack, Gollum's Arch (depicted on p 202 of Rossiter's The Crags Areas guide). Overall, the lower crag with the majority of the routes is approximately 130-150 ft high. There are several quality, short routes here, including the above classic namesake, Facial Hair, Close Encounters, & Hand Latch. It can be quite warm here on sunny days.

Descent, historically, from the rock has been done by scrambling off 3rd or 4th class to the E or W. One can also descend via rappel from some of the routes. Note that the rappel from Frigidaire/Gollum's area is over 100 ft.

Getting There Suggest change

From the new parking lot, you can take either trail to approach this crag as it makes basically a circle with the parking area being ~6 o'clock & this crag being ~12 o'clock. Either approach is ~1 mile. If you go west from the parking lot, you will need to head northeast after ~0.6 miles. Then, follow the trail that wanders up north between Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Veer right to Gollum's Arch when you are just below Hen & Chickens. If you approach from the right (north) trail, head west when you T into the Gem Lake trail junction. From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Expect about 20-25 minutes.

10 Total Climbs

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Location: Gollum's Arch Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Gollum's Arch Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 56
Gollum's Arch
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 7
Facial Hair
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Tufa Dreams
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gollum's Arch
 56
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Facial Hair
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
Tufa Dreams
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Gollum's Arch Rock »

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