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Routes in Orange Pillar

Beverly Hills Ninja T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Black Sheep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boi-oi-oi-ing! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith + 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Farenheit 7/16 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Expectations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Housekeeping T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ode to Brian T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
St. Stephen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tommy Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Graham & Oswick
Page Views: 1,248 total, 10/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Increasingly difficult thin changing corners climbing which I found more challenging than anything else I did at PB including several pitches which were rated harder.

Start with a couple of hard moves off the deck, then some easier terrain then an interesting move using a flake to get to a horn that alone would justify the 10d rating. The next 15' involve decreasingly bomber fingerlocks and toecams in the corner and good small nuts if you can hang around to place them. Anchors shortly follow.

Location

A little uphill of Boi-oi-oing in a small right facing corner.

Protection

RPs to red or gold Camalot with emphasis on the thinner stuff.

Photos

Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
 
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
 
I named this route "High Expectations" because I had high hopes for the corner above this first pitch. The book above turned out to be choss -- bummer. Maybe it can be cleaned up. Jan 4, 2016
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.11-
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.11-
I thought this route was pretty high quality, similar to some of the rock found at the Needles. The gear is very good, there are rests, and I thought the move to the anchor was probably the crux. Sep 9, 2014
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
The question is, where should it go? I busted some wild moves out around the arete on TR to gain the offwidth right of Boioioing, but they'd need a bolt or two to protect. The logical line follows the cracks, but there is a ton of loose crap stuffed in there--would take a crowbar and a hammer to clean. Was that the original condition of Boi-oi-oing, or was it pretty clean already? I'm willing to go either way, but don't know if the bolted line would be frowned upon when there's such a clear crack system. Jun 4, 2013
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.11a
fubar, the stray bolt I believe to be a second-pitch continuation of the route and is an abandoned project. The route name stems from this "expectation" of a second pitch and was never completed. A worthy project with a bit of scrubbing. Jan 18, 2013
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
I top-roped the link-up from the top of the second pitch to the top of the pillar. There is an odd stray bolt about twenty feet down and around the anchors of Boioioing -- maybe it was going to be another anchor? I would like to know if this is someone's project because it will be really good once it's cleaned up, but it needs some cleaning. It's probably 12a. Jan 6, 2013
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.11a
I also thought this was a bit hard for the grade. It gets pretty thin toward the top. There are anchors for a second pitch, but I don't know if it has been led yet; it seems like a third pitch would be possible as well, ending at the Boi-oi-oing P2 anchors.

This climb is located downhill from Boi-oi-oing. Jul 12, 2007