Up To No Use
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.4631, -118.7459 |
| FA: | Abel Jones and Nate Wilson GU August 2019 |
| Page Views: | 690 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Abel Jones on Aug 20, 2019 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The crack system that goes through the roof to the right of conquistadors of the useless.
P1: 5.8? Straight line it from the ground to the second set of anchors on conquistadors. Chossy but easy crack climbing to a couple bolts before the anchor. 100ft
P2: 5.10b/c Straight up the chossy crack above with interesting climbing and some wide crack sections to a perch on the right below the large roof. Gear anchor. 60ft
P3: 5.10d blast out the roof with hand sized gear then tackle a quality face and thin crack section to a ledge with gear anchor. 50ft
P4: 5.11- up through a double thin crack section and some shallow corner climbing to a permanent sling anchor. 70ft
Descent:. Rap from sling anchor to the top anchors of conquistadors. Rap that route. (Look at conquistadors as you rap down... Looks good!)



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