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Routes in Orange Pillar

Beverly Hills Ninja T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Black Sheep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boi-oi-oi-ing! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith + 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Farenheit 7/16 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Expectations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Housekeeping T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ode to Brian T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
St. Stephen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tommy Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Barry Oswick, Urmas Franosch, Eric Sorenson. 09/03
Page Views: 9,948 total, 76/month
Shared By: outdooreric on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.10a): Climbs up the right side of a giant wedged block about 25 feet off the ground. Continue up double cracks to the highest ledge before the upper headwall. Bolted anchor at 85 feet.

P2 (5.10a): Start out slightly up and left of the anchor and get ready for 165 feet of hand jamming! Generally there are two or three cracks to choose from. When in doubt, stay to the left. Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.9): Not recommended due to loose rock and friable holds. If you do climb this, we left some fixed junk to rap from, beware.

Location

On the orange tower that faces east. This climb actually has somewhat of a southerly aspect.
To get down with one rope, do a short rappel off the right side of the wall (East) from the top of pitch 2. This brings you to the anchor for "Do I Make You Horny?", then do another 100 foot rappel to get back to the first pitch anchor.

Protection

Doubles in cams from fingers to fist. Some may want a couple extra hand or thin hand sized pieces.
Kevin Ross
San Francisco, CA
Kevin Ross   San Francisco, CA
Was up in the Patricia Bowl area this weekend (6/25/2017) - all of the routes look dry but there's still 25 feet of snow at the base of Boi-oi-oi-ing (and many other routes), along with a somewhat sketchy bergschrund guarding the wall. We decided against trying to get on the route. If you are harder than us, it might be possible to cut steps down the bergschrund to access the route. Bring crampons! Sons of Liberty is good to go though. Jun 26, 2017
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
This climb is not to be missed if you are in the area.. Feb 10, 2017
Tomko
SANTA CLARA CA
  5.10a
Tomko   SANTA CLARA CA
  5.10a
Fixed #2 BD cam under the big block. I clipped it as my first piece.

It was VERY cold climbing on Labor Day weekend. Even with a puffy everyone in my party was chilled. That being said, its brilliant! Sep 6, 2016
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10a
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10a
Amazingly good climb, hand jamming ad finitum, although a little tight at times!
Four #1's work great, although other options work too.

3 raps straight down the outer face of the pillar (didn't use the P1 anchor). Aug 7, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
overall an awesome route! i thought P1 was solid 10a on a technical and physical level, but P2 more on the 5.9 side with endless solid jams and enough breaks to not get worked.

in terms of hand size, many of the jams are in slight flares which means deeper jams for smaller hands and more outward jams for bigger hands (i.e. the rock accommodates a wide range of hand sizes, especially on P2).

.75 and #1 camalots work really well, but there's ample opportunity to place smaller cams and nuts.

the 2nd pitch is one of the best crack pitches i've ever climbed at any grade. steep, long, and beautiful.

Jun 30, 2015
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
P1 anchor for the last rap down consists of bolted beefy rap hangers, to clarify Sep 15, 2014
JarydB
  5.10a
JarydB  
  5.10a
I got my rope badly stuck after the 2nd rappel. With bad weather approaching, I opted to fix the remainder to the first anchor, rap off, and return for it. This is a great route, but those amazing hand cracks will eat up your rope if you aren't careful! Jul 1, 2014
For those without a guidebook, this climb (and the orange pillar it is on) are quite far right from where the approach path hits the first wall. It is directly above the middle of the lake below the crag. You will know the climb when you see it (both from the pitch descriptions and the two sets of anchors visible).

Also, the anchor atop P1 has no rap rings, only bolts. Jul 5, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Exceptional route and a beautiful line.

P1 - Shorter than P2, but still has some gitty up.
P2 - The money pitch. This thing is long, and at 11,000 feet seems even longer. Probably around 140-150 feet. Very sustained climbing, with few rests in the first 100'. Once you get below the big spike sticking out, rests begin appearing. Save a couple #3 camalots for the top third (I placed one below the spike, and moving up the wide crack above the spike).

I had a standard rack (double thin to #3 camalot) + 2 extra #1s and 2 extra #2s. I was able to find lots of spots for non-handsized gear on P2, but I still ended up placing all the #1s and #2s. YMMV.

Descent: Rap straight down the nose of the buttress, don't drop into the corner on the opposite side of the route. I made that mistake and nearly passed the rap anchors. The first rap is short, like 30-40 feet down to some mussy hooks. Then a 100' rap down to the P1 anchors (be sure to avoid getting the rope in the crack). And then another rap to the ground. The Mammoth Climbing Book (Marty Lewis) has incorrect descent info - it claims the first rap is 100' and then to rap a different route. Follow the instructions above and all will be good. Jul 24, 2012
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
The hands are perfect if you are a fairy-nymph. For us normal people they are bit tight. There is some grittyness to the route but has some great climbing in a spectacular setting. Jul 18, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Perfect hands, woo! :) Jul 8, 2010
Thrutchtastic
Sparks, NV
 
Thrutchtastic   Sparks, NV
 
Fantastic climb! When rapping down from the top of pitch two, go straight down the face that the bolts are on (not down the climb itself--even with a 70m you won't make it to the P1 belay) to find rap anchors. Sep 25, 2009
BryanM
 
BryanM  
 
Completely agree about the last pitch. We did it anyway. Left some stoppers to rap from in '05. Just to back up a hex that had some questionable webbing. I'll post a pic of the last pitch. Dec 8, 2008
The first two pitches are excellent, sustained, aesthetic climbing. Tight hands, ugh! :) Oct 21, 2007