TBlom > Comments
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Oct 5, 2022
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Sure do miss those days!
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Nov 19, 2015
Southeast Utah
> San Juan County
> Indian Creek
> Battle of the B…
> Cave Route (5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b)
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That climb is awesome, probably 15 degrees cooler in there on a hot day.
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Jul 10, 2008
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Very cool climb and spectacular summit. We climbed the right side-ish, over many crystal studded faces, an…
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Jun 28, 2008
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The belay/rap anchors at the top of the 4th pitch have wobbly bolts! They look new, but when I weighted th…
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May 25, 2008
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Beware that if you take this alternate (and polished) start to Nutcracker, you may be passed by parties on…
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May 2, 2008
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i think I places 7 #2 camalots, and maybe a #1 at the start. Easier than it looks if you have huge man han…
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May 2, 2008
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This route may have gotten slightly harder over the last 9 years. There is a big move off of a deteriorati…
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May 2, 2008
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Uhhhhh.... I was pretty pumped, but this climb has some really cool improbable holds. 11a.
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May 2, 2008
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Shelf Road is dog friendly for the same reason it is bolt friendly. Yay for public lands! Dogs are not we…
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Apr 23, 2008
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Lots of fun, the start looks intimidating but is pretty solid. A small RP can back up the pin and a blue A…
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Apr 17, 2008
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You people are absolutely MAD! It looks like vertical kitty litter... Those pillars only exist because th…
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Apr 3, 2008
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My first real gear lead, of course I was sandbagged into it, there's really not that much pro at all, just…
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Apr 3, 2008
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Not that you should, but the top of the pedestal is a pretty sweet bivy if you want to beat all the other c…
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Apr 3, 2008
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I have huge hands, so I never really considered the upper part as part of the crux, for me it was just gett…
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Dec 24, 2007
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When I did this route (maybe 1996?) The last bolt wasn't installed, it was more like a 25 ft. runout to th…
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Dec 24, 2007
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After learning to climb around here, I moved to Colorado... I would definitely recommend leaving the Bay A…
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Oct 14, 2007
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managed to hangdog and leapfrog cams while doing the moves on this one. the jams were tight as hell for…
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Oct 14, 2007
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I went back recently, and I have to admit that the sling anchor is total sheit. Perhaps a bolt anchor woul…
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Nov 11, 2006
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Not 10c, not runout but very good and worth checking it out, maybe 10a/b.
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Jul 2, 2006
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Totally sweet...combined 1 and 2, just watch for rope drag. It's not a bad climb, just an out of fashion c…
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Jul 2, 2006
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The quickest way is to climb from next to the boulder, and link all the pitches finishing with the right an…
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Jan 13, 2006
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I used your comment as an excuse to skin up 4th of July Rd. The chimney has ice but I wouldn't call it fat…
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Oct 21, 2005
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I followed this in 98 and fell. led it in 2003 and fired the whole thing. Just make sure to rest well bef…
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Sep 15, 2005
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I remember it feeling like 10a, then another time I crossed the diagonalling roof at a different spot and i…
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Mar 17, 2005
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I think it's silly that there aren't more mixed sport/trad routes in Boulder Canyon. The rock is very fitt…
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Jun 15, 2005
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Welcome to the Sport Park, this is the place to go to grab your "hardest" ascents. I still think some of t…
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Oct 29, 2004
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I've always connected pitch 4 and 5, if you use long runners, a 60m rope will get you from the hand travers…
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Jun 20, 2005
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Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents…
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Oct 18, 2004
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P.S. you can also jam the crack insead of laybacking.
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Oct 18, 2004
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we did this route once sticking to the face , and once in the crack. I think the crack is overall steeper/…
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Oct 4, 2004
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Last year, I was able to do this route in 4X200ft pitches. If you start from the East Bench, and go towards…
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Sep 13, 2004
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If you do the upper pitch of Over the Hill or the dihedral to the left, there is a very quick descent to th…
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Sep 11, 2004
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I guess we've always done the start from Great Zot instead of the real start. pretty cool jamcrack , just…
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Sep 11, 2004
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I've only done the east slabs descent once, in the dark. But I think it sucks. It is like downclimbing a…
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Sep 11, 2004
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We found a tri-cam placement for the opening moves on the direct start. There is a disintegrating pocket th…
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Sep 11, 2004
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I've led this line a couple of times and found that if you have a 60m rope, you can almost reach the Red Le…
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