Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)

After Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Six T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Concerto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commissioner Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fecophilia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haley's Comet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Jump for Joy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Do-do It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mouse King T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nutcracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renus Wrinkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,566 total, 55/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


240 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Twenty feet to the right of the standard start for Nutcracker is a beautiful finger crack that ascends the blank wall to a tree (110'). After the tree ascend another 80 feet to join the original route at the start of the fourth pitch.

The start of the variation takes you up 15 feet of an unprotected slab. Then sink a couple small cams and climb up the smooth 5.9 face. After 20 feet the climbing eases.

Location

Twenty feet to the right of the original Nutcracker start.

Protection

Cams from .25 to 2 inches.
JJ Foley
San Francisco, California
JJ Foley   San Francisco, California
Big fan of this one.

Good variation from finger to wide hands at the top.

You can rap from tree to ground with a single 70 Apr 22, 2015
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Rope Solo'd with a 70m rope and a single rack! Went Splendidly! A Total must dooo!! Sep 12, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
If just doing the first pitch you can rappel with a 70m. Nov 7, 2013
BrianWS
  5.9
BrianWS  
  5.9
Took the direct start and got stuck behind a party of three, who kept taking and setting intermediate belays.
This route COOKS in the summer. My partner and I had blisters on our toes from the heat absorbed by the rock. Jan 28, 2013
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
  5.9
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
  5.9
Dynamic Doubles is the bolted line right of the 5.9 crack, touches the crack line at the second tree (in the 1994 Reid/Meyers topo) then heads out right again.

The 5.9 crack var is shown on the 1982 Meyers guide (the future Dynamics Duo line is shown as a dotted TR line). Linda and I did this crack var in 1983, passed a couple parties on the first pitches and a line at the bottom! I remember it to be kind of like the slammer parts of Senrenity Crack, just a tick easier. Jan 28, 2013
description. ends at start of third pitch not 4th. Feb 26, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
According to the Reid guide this variation is actually a route called "Dynamic Doubles" with FA credit given to Dan & Sue McDevitt in 1991. Dec 24, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
The easiest way to get to the base of the crack is to go up some ledges on the right (5.5). Dec 12, 2011
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
This is a great single pitch to do on its own... Oct 17, 2011
TBlom  
Beware that if you take this alternate (and polished) start to Nutcracker, you may be passed by parties on the real (and much easier) 1st pitch. This is what has kept me from climbing the rest of the route, got to the first belay to find that some Frenchies had already nabbed the belay, we bailed off because we didn't want to wait behind them (after they obviously scrambled to beat us to the belay). May 25, 2008
Marc H
Denver
Marc H   Denver
It's my understanding most people start this variation on the low-angle face directly below the crack. To suggest another variation: Start on the left of the face and follow the seam (that eventually turns into the crack) in from the left. It's probably goes at about 5.9, no protection. It's aesthetic and enjoyable, IMO. Nov 24, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i managed to do it in 4 pitches with a 60m rope but i had a pretty uncomfortable belay above the bulge on the slab....

great route... this start is so clean and nice, just do it... Oct 25, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
If using this start, you can do the route in 4 pitches with a 70m rope.
P1. Go to the second large tree for the first belay (shade, and a nice perch) ~ 60m.
P2. Go to a gear belay just below the roof. Be mindful of ropedrag. 70m rope stretcher.
P3. Go to a gear belay about 20' below the mantle, at a stance on a dike where there used to be bolts.
P4. Over the top.

The first pitch is very slick, especially the first couple of moves, and a little reachy. May 26, 2007