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Routes in Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)

After Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Six T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Concerto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commissioner Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fecophilia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haley's Comet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Jump for Joy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Do-do It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mouse King T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nutcracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renus Wrinkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,865 total, 15/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 29, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Between After Seven and C.S. Concerto lies this short face and crack. Delicate face climbing on slick rock past 2 bolts leads to a nice 5.9 crack with reasonable pro. Crux is right off the deck. A small wire can be slotted before the first bolt.

A fun end-of-the-day tick or while waiting for one of the more popular lines.

Protection

2 bolts plus a light rack.

Photos

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Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
the nut is solid but it won't keep you off the ground if you commit to the crux. also agree that it's harder than Haley's Comet a few routes to the left. very cool upper crack though. May 2, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
100% agreement with Mike Holley. Oct 17, 2015
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
The Business is right of the deck and getting to the first bolt is the hardest, slickest and scariest part. After the first clip the rest of the route is superb, short and sweet! A great fun single pitch if everything else is crowded and you have some time to kill! Sep 12, 2014
I found this very hard. I OS'ed Jump For Joy and easily RP Haley's Comet after a slip, but the start of this shut me down. I was attempting it straight on and pulling super hard. In retrospect the only way I can conceive of doing it at a 10 grade would be tip toeing up the left edges and features to a right high step smear, gaining high right layback edge w/right hand with left palming down or using left edges for balance. Aug 2, 2012
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Nice consolation climb is everything else is busy. Slick rock makes the bottom balancy and insecure. Climbing in the upper crack is great but over too soon. Oct 17, 2009
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
good perfect onsight-for me! love that thing (woke me up in the early morning) after drinking all night!!! Jun 5, 2009
There seems to be disagreement to how hard this route is. I dispatched with the 5.10 start pretty fast, but the upper crack took me a bit longer than I thought it would. The pro was resonable but took more than a casual glance to find. Oct 19, 2008
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
Use caution. Very slick on the left side. Gear is very thin at the start. Very fun stout 5.10. Worth doing! Feb 26, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This thing is short and fun. Worth a go if you have a few extra minutes at the end of the day, or dare I say, want one of the softer Valley .10 ticks there is. Jul 30, 2007