5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.9 from 926 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Yvon Chouinard and Ruth Schneider - June 1965|
|Page Views:||53,492 total · 266/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Jensen on Sep 20, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Great moderate climbing with increasingly beautiful views of the valley.
Pitch 1 - (5.6) This is the crux of the route. Jam and stem up a right facing dihedral to belay at a tree above. Move the belay up and across 3rd class for forty feet to the base of a wide crack. (120')
Pitch 2 - (5.5) Climb the wide crack to the top of a pedestal and then continue slanting right across 5.4 territory to an alcove. (180')
Pitch 3 - (5.3) Slab climb up a knobby face to a large ledge. (120')
Pitch 4 - (5.5) Climb up the face to a right facing flake then either climb to the large roof and move right under the roof, or move right into a crack and avoid the roof entirely. Belay at a small tree.
Pitch 5 - (5.6) Climb up the crack and onto the face to the top of the buttress.
Descent: The route tops onto a large flat platform. Towards the back you'll see 40 more feet of potential upward scrambling - you do not need to scramble to the top of this. Instead, from the platform, walk back towards the left side and scramble up maybe 8 feet onto another small platform, and skirt the left side until you see a steep ~20 ft gully on the left. Go down and continue to skirt the left side as you move towards the back until you hit a dirt trail.
Park in the picnic area about 1.5 west of Camp 4. From the parking area, walk a few minutes on the trail on flat ground. If you start going uphill much, you are likely on the descent route. After Six is the first climbing route you encounter on the left side of buttress.