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Routes in Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)

After Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Six T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Concerto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commissioner Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fecophilia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haley's Comet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Jump for Joy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Do-do It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mouse King T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nutcracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renus Wrinkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Yvon Chouinard and Ruth Schneider - June 1965
Page Views: 29,815 total, 219/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Great moderate climbing with increasingly beautiful views of the valley.

Pitch 1 - (5.6) This is the crux of the route. Jam and stem up a right facing dihedral to belay at a tree above. Move the belay up and across 3rd class for forty feet to the base of a wide crack. (120')

Pitch 2 - (5.5) Climb the wide crack to the top of a pedestal and then continue slanting right across 5.4 territory to an alcove. (180')

Pitch 3 - (5.3) Slab climb up a knobby face to a large ledge. (120')

Pitch 4 - (5.5) Climb up the face to a right facing flake then either climb to the large roof and move right under the roof, or move right into a crack and avoid the roof entirely. Belay at a small tree.

Pitch 5 - (5.6) Climb up the crack and onto the face to the top of the buttress.

Descend by walking off into the gully on the left.

Location

As you walk up the trail from the parking area After Six is the first climbing route that you come to on the left side of buttress.

Protection

Set of nuts, small cams to 2 inches.
Olivia Stavros-Tracy
Charlotte, NC
  5.7
Olivia Stavros-Tracy   Charlotte, NC
  5.7
I left a pair of womans dark gray zip off North Face pants in the bear box or possibly even on the ground in front of this route. If anyone finds them please let me know! Oct 28, 2017
John Oberbeck
  5.7
John Oberbeck  
  5.7
Just did this route last Sunday (Memorial day weekend). Got to the base at 9ish and had no line, but while we were on the first pitch, 3 more parties showed up.

Excellent climb that definitely deserves its classic status.
Pitch Beta:

P1- The first pitch is stiff for the grade, with two definitive cruxes. Save a .4 camalot to slot into the roof to protect the second crux.

P2- Mostly class 3, with two 5.6 sections, including a fun little finger crack. The top of P2 is a large ledge perfect for an early lunch / snack / nap in the sun.

P3- Follow a wide crack up to the crescent moon flake on your right. Halfway up, switch onto the crack's left face for a few moves. Sustained 5.6.

P4- I honestly can't remember anything about this pitch :-)

P5- Take some 5.5 knobs on the right of the belay up, then hit a 5.6 lieback. I was able to slot a #2 C4 early, then forewent further placements in favor of powering through. In retrospect, I'd suggest sewing it up a little more. Bring long slings for the zigzag beyond the lieback before the belay, or you'll be hating the rope drag

P6- Not out of the woods yet! Some interesting 5.6 climbing up the crack to the right of the roof. Guidebook claims the face to the left is 5.7, and the roof goes at 5.8, but it looks a lot harder. May 30, 2017
Tristan Sipe
Santa Rosa, CA
  5.6
Tristan Sipe   Santa Rosa, CA
  5.6
Wow what an amazing route!

Did it in 6 pitches with the After Seven start variation. Would recommend letting the more experienced/confident leader lead pitches 1,3, and 5 and saving pitches 2,4, and 6 for your partner. Pitches 1 and 3 were definitely the cruxes, physically and psychologically.

Exposure on P3 is slightly heady but you can sling a bomber chockstone before you pull out on the face!

Descent was very straight forward, make sure to descend straight back from the final ledge rather than left!
May 1, 2017
If it's your first time on the Manure Pile, get the beta on the descent. The book we had was vague, and someone else on the climb told us to descend at a particular dead tree, and pointed to it. Turned out to be a "death chute" that dropped off. Luckily we weren't the only ones to make that mistake and found a tree with slings on it that could bring us safely down the the well-traveled descent trail in the gully. Found the other climber at the bottom who apologized for mixing up his dead trees. He took the correct way down after we left. Jun 9, 2016
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.7
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.7
This comment is for anyone for whom, like for me, this is the first climb ever in the Valley. After reading all the previous comments about how deadly slick this one is, I was aghast. Well, turns out this one's got more friction than pretty much anything else you've ever climbed in your life, especially if you've been on basalt or limestone. I guess standards of "slick" and "greasy" vary from place to place:)

Fun first pitch! Nov 4, 2014
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.7+
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.7+
Pitch 1 is the slipperiest climbing I've done in the valley. Hard for 5.7, especially at 7am. Stretch those calves before jumping on. Everything after the first pitch feels about ten times as easy in comparison. Sep 16, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
A fun romp and a good introduction to Manure Pile area. Get Ready to wait in line because this guy is the most popular kid in school at the grade! WEar sunscreen! Sep 12, 2014
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.8-
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.8-
I just looked in my old green Roper guide(1971) and it shows After Six as 5.7 so 5.7 isn't a retro grade after all. Mar 31, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
 
Partner and I did after seven then continued up this route. To much easy/scrambling climbing for me until the very last pitch. Fun face climbing at the last pitch. Aug 8, 2012
rafael
Berkeley, CA
rafael   Berkeley, CA
The fixed piton on pitch one is not there anymore, and the pitch gets more polished every year. Dont end up too close to nutcracker around pitch four, this is the top of fecophilia, I decided to climb what looked to be a rarely climbed line, and got into some really runout sections (prob 5.7) with flaring cracks. I bet offset cams would work fine, but who carries those on free routes. Sep 13, 2011
cragsavvy
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
the first pitch is more like 5.8.. a famous climber of yosemite, also a guide was following behind us and he said a tree was growing in the middle that pulled out that made it 5.6. He said the grades for After Six and After Seven are switched for the first pitches Jun 20, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7+
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7+
The first "5.6" pitch was the hardest 5.7 I've led in the Valley, and I've led a lot of them. Then again, the route was a bit wet too (in January).

The 5.8 finishes are fun. The triple crack is good, and the roof is a burly-yet-solid bouldering move. Place a very small TCU high in the roof to avoid a bad fall, or bypass it to the left via a 5.4 slab after climbing the 5.8 crack variation. (I did the roof on TR after bypassing it since I didn't have pro for it). Jan 18, 2011
Rodger Raubach
  5.7+
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7+
A very popular, and crowded, route. Well worth the effort. Sep 4, 2010
England
?
  5.6
England   ?
  5.6
The first pitch is a solid seven, and very polished. A couple of aliens, and a piton(first pitch) have become permanent fixtures on the route. May 10, 2010
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Thought it was going to be an easy 5.6 - not the case!! Haha. I've done the route several times since and Love it. The first pitch is a solid 5.7. Mar 10, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.6
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.6
Good first multi-pitch climb. First pitch is slick so beware. The corner-roof finish is the only way to go and is not as bad as it looks. Getting up to the roof protects well with micro-cams (blue/black aliens) if I remember correctly and the roof traverse is juggy and exciting. Oct 17, 2009
The first pitch of this route is very polished and slick for sure. I slipped but caught myself. This is definitely a challenge for a 5.6. Jul 27, 2009
Very good first multi-pitch climb. The belays are all at nice ledges (depending on where you end the third pitch. I would recommend moving up past the face moves to the optional belay ledge higher up). The climbing is very mello with plenty of pro where you realy want it. The madatory face climbing is simple, so just relax. We combined the last 2 pitches but it required me to move up the knobby face beforeTristan finished the last 10 feet or so (70 meter rope, the last ledge/slab is bigger than you think). The optional finish to the left (up the colored corner and roof) looks so rad! I wouldn't repeat this route except that I want to go back and do that finish!

Gear: 1 set of nuts
1 set of cams (we used BD C4's up to yellow)
plenty of slings! Oct 19, 2008
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.7
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.7
The first pitch is slippery, as indicated. Even if it was not slippery, I would still rate it a 5.7. It is a very fun climb. The down climb is a very decent trail off to climbers left... Very easy approach... A bear box is near the base of the climb. Jun 12, 2007
Adam Steel
Salt Lake City
Adam Steel   Salt Lake City
The first pitch has been called "the hardest 5.6 in the valley." It has been retrograded to 5.7 in the new Supertopos. Jan 14, 2007
Blitzo  
The first pitch is greasy and polished! I thought I was going to die, free soloing it, on a humid day with constant gnat annoyance. I was so glad to wrap my arms around the tree growing out of it, before the last face moves.
The tree is now gone.
I'll never solo that pitch again!
The upper pitches offer very friendly, secure soloing and are very fun! Sep 29, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
 
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
 
Another very fun route on the Manure pile... Sep 22, 2006