Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 37.73059, -119.619
FA: Kevin Worrall, Billy Westbay, 1975
Page Views: 461 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kevin Worrall on Feb 16, 2023
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

I’m adding this route almost 50 years after we did it. It occupies the center of a big otherwise unclimbed chunk of one of the Valley’s most popular moderate areas. It is an exciting outing on good rock, with almost no bolts. It was a spontaneous ground up ascent with no preinspection and we had a great mini adventure on it. RIP Billy!

This route starts midway across the horizontal traverse to the 5.4 ramp on Nutcracker. It parallels Mouse King about 20 or 30 ft to its left. Climb over a small roof and follow an intermittent seam using face holds and some finger pockets for about 100 ft. This pitch is protected by small wires and has no protection bolts, continuous 5.9 on well featured rock. Move left to a belay ledge below a wide roof.

The next pitch passes the roof on the left, 5.10a, and a lone bolt, then wanders up the featured face using mostly wires for pro. Most of the climbing is continuous 5.8 as I remember. Small cams would likely be useful - they didn’t exist when we climbed it. Belay on a ledge at the base of a long right facing corner.

Climb the face left of Nutcraker to the last belay or traverse to Nutcraker and follow that route to the top. 

Location Suggest change

Start on left start of Nutcracker, belay just before the traverse to the ramp. Leave the Nutcracker route before reaching the ramp, and follow an intermittent seam straight up.

Protection Suggest change

Lots of small wires and cams to 1.5”. FA was done on stoppers and hexes, before cams

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