Easy Wind
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 37.73059, -119.619 |
| FA: | Kevin Worrall, Billy Westbay, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 461 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Worrall on Feb 16, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
I’m adding this route almost 50 years after we did it. It occupies the center of a big otherwise unclimbed chunk of one of the Valley’s most popular moderate areas. It is an exciting outing on good rock, with almost no bolts. It was a spontaneous ground up ascent with no preinspection and we had a great mini adventure on it. RIP Billy!
This route starts midway across the horizontal traverse to the 5.4 ramp on Nutcracker. It parallels Mouse King about 20 or 30 ft to its left. Climb over a small roof and follow an intermittent seam using face holds and some finger pockets for about 100 ft. This pitch is protected by small wires and has no protection bolts, continuous 5.9 on well featured rock. Move left to a belay ledge below a wide roof.
The next pitch passes the roof on the left, 5.10a, and a lone bolt, then wanders up the featured face using mostly wires for pro. Most of the climbing is continuous 5.8 as I remember. Small cams would likely be useful - they didn’t exist when we climbed it. Belay on a ledge at the base of a long right facing corner.
Climb the face left of Nutcraker to the last belay or traverse to Nutcraker and follow that route to the top.



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