All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > C. El Cap Picni… > 5. Manure Pile Buttre…

The Nutcracker Suite (aka Nutcracker)

Name: The Nutcracker Suite (aka Nutcracker)
Rating: 3.6

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in 5. Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)

L › R R › L A › Z

	After Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	After Six T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Beer Pressure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	C.S. Concerto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Commissioner Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Dynamic Doubles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Easy Wind T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Fecophilia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Haley's Comet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Jump for Joy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Just Do-do It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mouse King T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nutcracker Suite (aka Nutcracker), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Out To Lunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Renus Wrinkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Round The Clock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown (Too Lame To Name) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA:	Royal and Liz Robbins, 1967
Page Views:	112,516 total · 497/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Jun 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

Nutcracker is one of the most popular routes in Yosemite. Rarely can one hike to the climb and not find a number of parties on the route. Having said that, it's an excellent route, with clean cracks, good protection and fine climbing!

P1 (5.7 or 5.9): There are two possible starts. The original, starts up a sort of left-facing gully-crack system, heading for a belay above. A 5.9 variation goes up the cool-looking (but seriously slippery!) finger crack that angles right, then up.

P2 (5.4): Head up a sort of low-angle chimney-crack system and belay above.

P3 (5.7): Step right to gain a nice crack running up the wall. Climb this to a stance below an overhang above.

P4 (5.8): Traverse left across a slab towards a tree, then follow the crack to a belay below the infamous mantle move.

P5 (5.8): Climb up to the corner system above and execute the infamous mantle. Continue above in a nice crack that takes you to a flat summit. My personal feeling is that the reputation of this move is a bit undeserved: The holds are pretty big and it's over quickly. Ankles have been shattered on this pitch, however, so be careful!

Descent: Scramble down off the back-left of the formation and down the gully back to the base.

Location

Nutcracker starts on the right side of Manure Pile Buttess where you'll see a bunch of broken flakes below a tree. Easily identified by the obviously trafficked finger crack to the right of the tree. Look for the crowd.