Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Royal and Liz Robbins, 1967
Page Views: 78,955 total · 495/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 15, 2006 with improvements by Helen Wang
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Nutcracker is one of the most popular routes in Yosemite. Rarely can one hike to the climb and not find a number of parties on the route. Having said that, it's an excellent route, with clean cracks, good protection and fine climbing!

P1 (5.7 or 5.9): There are two possible starts. The original, starts up a sort of gully-crack system, heading for a belay above. A 5.9 variation goes up the cool-looking (but seriously slippery!) finger crack that angles right, then up.

P2: Head up a sort of low-angle chimney-crack system and belay above.

P3 (5.4): Step right to gain a nice crack running up the wall. Climb this to a stance below an overhang above.

P4 (5.7): Traverse left across a slab towards a tree, then follow the crack to a belay below the infamous mantle move.

P5 (5.8): Climb up to the corner system above and execute the infamous mantle. Continue above in a nice crack that takes you to a flat summit. My personal feeling is that the reputation of this move is a bit undeserved: The holds are pretty big and it's over quickly. Ankles have been shattered on this pitch, however, so be careful!

Descent: Scramble down off the back-left of the formation and down the gully back to the base.

Location

Nutcracker starts on the right side of Manure Pile Buttess where you'll see a bunch of broken flakes below a tree. Easily identified by the obviously trafficked finger crack to the right of the tree. Look for the crowd.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos