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Routes in Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)

After Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Six T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Concerto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commissioner Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fecophilia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haley's Comet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Jump for Joy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Do-do It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mouse King T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nutcracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renus Wrinkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Meyers, 1976
Page Views: 1,468 total, 55/month
Shared By: Mark Grundon on Oct 8, 2015 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Less popular variation on Nutcracker, around 3rd pitch, great way to get past some crowds.

This is more of a classic Yosemite sandbagged 5.9, much harder than the Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation.

Both variations can be linked on this climb. It's a great way for stronger climbers to avoid route congestion.

Crux at the bolts on the first pitch. Need more traffic a little sandbagged slab moves but on par for a 1976 route.

Location

From the 5.4 ramp on Nutcracker headup the crack to the line of bolts to the right. There is a one pitch route with bolts also to the left that is not in any book currently.

Protection

Three bolts on first pitch. On fixed hex. Well protected at cruxes. Only tricky moves with gear at your feet clipping first bolt. Second pitch has 5 1/4" bolts yet to be replaced but on easier terrain. I replaced the first pitch 1/4"ers 2015.

Photos

Mark Grundon  
 
Probably off route the bolts were there in 2015. They are pretty hard to see. Jul 28, 2017
Adal Bermann
San Diego, California
  5.10 R
Adal Bermann   San Diego, California
  5.10 R
I followed my buddy who led the first (well bolted) pitch when we had agreed on doing NutCracker as a simul climb.

I then led the second pitch. After placing a small cam and then a shallow green offset peanut, I ended up leading a 30ft+ runout on rock that seems to see nearly no traffic. Lichen on the rock, crimp holds breaking off... I would not recommend this variation without some extra bolting.

This was a week ago and I did NOT see any extra bolts after the 2 bolt anchor.

Once back on route, we enjoyed making quick ascent of the Nutcracker on simul. May 24, 2017
FA year 1976 Oct 9, 2015