Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Meyers, 1976
Page Views: 1,959 total · 42/month
Shared By: Mark Grundon on Oct 8, 2015 with improvements by Marielle Breneman
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Less popular variation on Nutcracker, around 3rd pitch, great way to get past some crowds.

This is more of a classic Yosemite sandbagged 5.9, much harder than the Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation.

Both variations can be linked on this climb. It's a great way for stronger climbers to avoid route congestion.

Crux at the bolts on the first pitch. Need more traffic a little sandbagged slab moves but on par for a 1976 route.

Location

From the 5.4 ramp on Nutcracker headup the crack to the line of bolts to the right. There is a one pitch route with bolts also to the left that is not in any book currently.

Protection

Three bolts on first pitch. On fixed hex. Well protected at cruxes. Only tricky moves with gear at your feet clipping first bolt. Second pitch has 5 1/4" bolts yet to be replaced but on easier terrain. I replaced the first pitch 1/4"ers 2015.

Photos