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Routes in Middle Cathedral Rock

Ants Are Fat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bircheff-Williams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monogamish T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slip on Slime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Kor, Beck
Page Views: 6,749 total, 50/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a good route that has a bit of loose rock on it. The first 3 pitches are nice sustained 5.8/9, then the 5-7th pitches get harder. The 5th goes up a corner and you've got to get out of the corner and around the arete to the right. My friend Alex took a chunk out of the arete here. Then the next pitch is classic Kor 5.9. You'll feel a total body pump by the time you get to the belay.

Location

Right side of a big drainage. You'll be able to see folks on the East Buttress from the base. Climb starts up on a ledge.

Protection

Standard valley rack. Belays are fixed to rap. No bolts on any pitches for pro.
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
We had a tough time locating the start, and ended up making a different way. Started by climbing up the slabs (5.5-ish) into the big recess, left of the actual route. Set a belay on the massive sloped ledge, and made a diagonal rightward traverse on steep flakes (5.9 with good pro and epic photo ops). Joined the first pitch (per supertopo) just below the dirty 5.7 chimney and had no problem continuing on to the bolted anchors.

I understand this is neither the intended nor the ideal start; I only wanted to make it known that going this way is indeed possible.

Oh, and linking P5+6 makes for an awesome enduro-finale! Jun 8, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Indeed, the whole route is a very different experience than the initial part of it. Adventure climbers will enjoy it, those accustomed to clear route paths, accurate topos, and great gear in clean great rock will not always be enamored of the possibilities that they are presented with beyond the bolted belays.
That said, I still enjoyed the route.
The 5.9 grade is a little sandbagged for P1-6, and perhaps more sandbagged if you do the whole route, in which case 5.10- (at least) is fair. Oct 2, 2016
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.9
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.9
I'd recommend against continuing this route to the top of the formation unless you enjoy loose rock, difficult route finding, and excavating through debris for dubious gear placements and jams. If you're looking for adventurous chossaneering, by all means go ahead, but most will want to bring two ropes and rap off when the climbing turns to shit. Sep 30, 2016
Mareko
San Francisco
 
Mareko   San Francisco
 
You can link P5 and 6. P3 and P5/6 are the money pitches. Great climb. Jul 12, 2016
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
Third pitch is awesome! Jun 13, 2016
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
my 80m rope was fully stretched on first rappel (p5,6) and last rappel ( p1)
Better to take two ropes. with 70m you have to down-climb twice.
it is easy to link p2,3 and p4,5 Jun 2, 2014
Bowe Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.10b
Bowe Ellis   Taos, NM
  5.10b
A very good route and there was no loose rock where it counted. The traverse on pitch 5 seems easier and better protected if done lower down. The other problem with the higher traverse is an ugly pendulum for the follower. Pitch 6 is simply fantastic! Beautiful movement, stemming, liebacking, scumming, smearing, chimneying, jamming. It's a 5.9 like NEB of Higher Cathedral. In other words... not.

Be careful on your raps. There are piles of rocks perched on pitch 3 and several rope grabbing flakes on pitches 2 & 3. May be worth doing shorter raps in here. May 18, 2014
Coco Bell
  5.9
Coco Bell  
  5.9
Awesome climb to do if CPF is swarming with people. A true old school 5.9 climb Jun 4, 2012
My partner and I were very nearly hit by rockfall at the base of this route. I heard stones tumbling down the chasm to the climbers' left and caught sight of falling rocks in time to repeatedly shout "ROCK!" to warn a group of three at the base of the chasm itself. They scattered quickly but my friend and I were trapped on the pedestal at the start of the route. I narrowly avoided taking a baseball sized chunk to the head by hugging the cliff. We were wearing helmets but I don't think it would've been pretty had we been hit. Take care when climbing at MCR and my advice would be to wear your helmet here. Jun 22, 2011
thecornyman
Oakland, CA
 
thecornyman   Oakland, CA
 
Great route, definitely some loose rock throughout. As of 5-14-11 all belays have at least one new bolt if not more. May 16, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Worth doing once. Stout for the grade. Aug 26, 2008
TBlom  
The belay/rap anchors at the top of the 4th pitch have wobbly bolts! They look new, but when I weighted them , the left one flexed in its hole. The right bolt seemed more solid, but both had loose nuts. It held my 200 lbs on the rap, but I was reticent to shock load or bounce at all on the rap. Jun 28, 2008
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Really nice route. Never too hard, but never too easy either. Interesting and tradical throughout. Oct 5, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Thought this was a great climb. Several of the pitches link, which can make the first six pitches go pretty fast.

First pitch has a .10a variation to the right of the original line that is protected by two fixed bashies.

We took doubles to #3 BD, one #4 BD, a set of nuts, and a 70m. We linked pitches and found the rack to be plenty, or overkill.

A good deal easier than the standard you find on NEB Higher, but felt similar in some ways. Good, comfortable ledges and stances for every belay. May 31, 2007