Type: Trad, 1400 ft (424 m), 13 pitches
FA: Kor, Beck
Page Views: 10,668 total · 64/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 16, 2006 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a good route that has a bit of loose rock on it. The first 3 pitches are nice sustained 5.8/9, then the 5-7th pitches get harder. The 5th goes up a corner and you've got to get out of the corner and around the arete to the right. My friend Alex took a chunk out of the arete here. Then the next pitch is classic Kor 5.9. You'll feel a total body pump by the time you get to the belay.

If doing the full Kor Beck -> Katwalk, quality of climbing decreased significantly after pitch 6 (supertopo numbering, the one with the belay in a tree where intelligent parties rappel the route).

Pitch 7-8. From the top of pitch 6, Pitch 7 climbs up and right above some blocks and shrubs into a mungy partially vegetated groove to an indeterminate end point. Pitch 8 continues up crack and face moves of to a chockstone and long narrow ledge. Finding no distinct comfortable belay on P7, we linked these two into one long pitch, belaying at a boulder at the top of the crack. Even w a 70m rope, this required simulclimbing for 15m or so on easy terrain to just below some more strenuous moves. Not recommended. 5.7, 5.8.

Pitch 9. Move belay from the boulder right about 25 feet across a ledge to a rap anchor, possibly on Bircheff-Williams. Seriously consider rappelling from here (we assume it goes all the way down, but have no beta on this rap as we failed to consider it seriously enough). Climb down slightly and step across to climb a broken left facing corner, eventually either tending left to a tree on a sandy ledge, or right across slabs into the “U-shaped bowl”.

Pitch 10. Two variations, apparently. I climbed up along the left side of the U shaped bowl, eventually choosing to pull one of several possible steep but juggy and easy moves over a broken bulge, then tending left to find a small grassy ledge near the base of a chimney. This was actually kindof fun. It looked like you could also cut left at the aforementioned tree at the top of p9 and climb the chimney from the bottom at 5.6.

Pitch 11. Finish the chimney and find 3rd or 4th class for 250-450 ft to the Kat Walk.

We went straight up left from the top of the chimney and there was definitely 5th class involved, so I would guess tending right at first then left would be a better option. Find a big dead tree in a corner. From right below this tree, traverse left 30 feet, then up a few moves of third class onto a sweet ledge. From this ledge, directly climber’s left there are two crack/gully systems that tend down and left into the next gully system skiers right of this ledge. Take the second one, traversing out under a bush at head height, and down into a gully with cracks (4th class) down about 30 feet.

At the bottom of this chute, head skier’s right, past a 2 foot wide pine tree, and then traverse slightly up and climber’s left to join the Kat Walk. From here, continue on the Kat Walk traverse and rappels, described elsewhere.

Location

Right side of a big drainage. You'll be able to see folks on the East Buttress from the base. Climb starts up on a ledge.

Protection

Standard valley rack. Belays are fixed to rap. No bolts on any pitches for pro.

Photos