Type: Trad, 1400 ft, 13 pitches
FA: Kor, Beck
Page Views: 8,568 total · 57/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 16, 2006 with improvements by Tony B
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

116 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This is a good route that has a bit of loose rock on it. The first 3 pitches are nice sustained 5.8/9, then the 5-7th pitches get harder. The 5th goes up a corner and you've got to get out of the corner and around the arete to the right. My friend Alex took a chunk out of the arete here. Then the next pitch is classic Kor 5.9. You'll feel a total body pump by the time you get to the belay.


Right side of a big drainage. You'll be able to see folks on the East Buttress from the base. Climb starts up on a ledge.


Standard valley rack. Belays are fixed to rap. No bolts on any pitches for pro.
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Thought this was a great climb. Several of the pitches link, which can make the first six pitches go pretty fast.

First pitch has a .10a variation to the right of the original line that is protected by two fixed bashies.

We took doubles to #3 BD, one #4 BD, a set of nuts, and a 70m. We linked pitches and found the rack to be plenty, or overkill.

A good deal easier than the standard you find on NEB Higher, but felt similar in some ways. Good, comfortable ledges and stances for every belay. May 31, 2007
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
Really nice route. Never too hard, but never too easy either. Interesting and tradical throughout. Oct 5, 2007
The belay/rap anchors at the top of the 4th pitch have wobbly bolts! They look new, but when I weighted them , the left one flexed in its hole. The right bolt seemed more solid, but both had loose nuts. It held my 200 lbs on the rap, but I was reticent to shock load or bounce at all on the rap. Jun 28, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Worth doing once. Stout for the grade. Aug 26, 2008
Oakland, CA
thecornyman   Oakland, CA
Great route, definitely some loose rock throughout. As of 5-14-11 all belays have at least one new bolt if not more. May 16, 2011
My partner and I were very nearly hit by rockfall at the base of this route. I heard stones tumbling down the chasm to the climbers' left and caught sight of falling rocks in time to repeatedly shout "ROCK!" to warn a group of three at the base of the chasm itself. They scattered quickly but my friend and I were trapped on the pedestal at the start of the route. I narrowly avoided taking a baseball sized chunk to the head by hugging the cliff. We were wearing helmets but I don't think it would've been pretty had we been hit. Take care when climbing at MCR and my advice would be to wear your helmet here. Jun 22, 2011
Coco Bell
Coco Bell  
Awesome climb to do if CPF is swarming with people. A true old school 5.9 climb Jun 4, 2012
Bowe Ellis
Taos, NM
Bowe Ellis   Taos, NM
A very good route and there was no loose rock where it counted. The traverse on pitch 5 seems easier and better protected if done lower down. The other problem with the higher traverse is an ugly pendulum for the follower. Pitch 6 is simply fantastic! Beautiful movement, stemming, liebacking, scumming, smearing, chimneying, jamming. It's a 5.9 like NEB of Higher Cathedral. In other words... not.

Be careful on your raps. There are piles of rocks perched on pitch 3 and several rope grabbing flakes on pitches 2 & 3. May be worth doing shorter raps in here. May 18, 2014
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
my 80m rope was fully stretched on first rappel (p5,6) and last rappel ( p1)
Better to take two ropes. with 70m you have to down-climb twice.
it is easy to link p2,3 and p4,5 Jun 2, 2014
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
Third pitch is awesome! Jun 13, 2016
San Francisco
Mareko   San Francisco
You can link P5 and 6. P3 and P5/6 are the money pitches. Great climb. Jul 12, 2016
Boise, ID
Trevor.   Boise, ID
I'd recommend against continuing this route to the top of the formation unless you enjoy loose rock, difficult route finding, and excavating through debris for dubious gear placements and jams. If you're looking for adventurous chossaneering, by all means go ahead, but most will want to bring two ropes and rap off when the climbing turns to shit. Sep 30, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Indeed, the whole route is a very different experience than the initial part of it. Adventure climbers will enjoy it, those accustomed to clear route paths, accurate topos, and great gear in clean great rock will not always be enamored of the possibilities that they are presented with beyond the bolted belays.
That said, I still enjoyed the route.
The 5.9 grade is a little sandbagged for P1-6, and perhaps more sandbagged if you do the whole route, in which case 5.10- (at least) is fair. Oct 2, 2016
Derek Field
Derek Field   California
We had a tough time locating the start, and ended up making a different way. Started by climbing up the slabs (5.5-ish) into the big recess, left of the actual route. Set a belay on the massive sloped ledge, and made a diagonal rightward traverse on steep flakes (5.9 with good pro and epic photo ops). Joined the first pitch (per supertopo) just below the dirty 5.7 chimney and had no problem continuing on to the bolted anchors.

I understand this is neither the intended nor the ideal start; I only wanted to make it known that going this way is indeed possible.

Oh, and linking P5+6 makes for an awesome enduro-finale! Jun 8, 2017
Vincent Gallegos  
At the top of the first pitch (10a) I said to myself "that was a hell of a pitch", and the fun has barely started from there! Considerably tougher than CPF in my opinion. Flakes on p.2 and 3 eat ropes on raps. Dec 14, 2017
Ghouls Fold
East Bay, CA
Ghouls Fold   East Bay, CA
Cool route with great views of el cap the whole way. Lead the 10a start variation- fun and a little bouldery. This ended up being one of the easier pitches on the route! p3-5 are physical and fun 5.8/5.9. p6- holy slippery batman! I'm sure the follower pack didn't help me fit in the corner, but this pitch stood out in terms of difficulty. Felt like a definite step up from Kor-Ingalls. The man's a beast!

Didn't encounter much loose rock going up through p6, but a party climbing the gully to the left lobbed a few softballs down throughout the day. Careful at the base! Oct 15, 2018
Brice Pollock
Oakland, CA
Brice Pollock   Oakland, CA  
Super burly, feels pretty insecure most of the time.

  • The 5.9 lieback on P4 is elegant and money.
  • The last step across on the last pitch is wild, super heady.
  • The final pitch 5.9 lb was strenuous, felt 5.9+
2 days ago