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> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 6. Middle Cathedral Rock
Freewheelin'
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.9 from 16 votes
Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Kevin Worrell, George Meyers, Roger Breedlove, 1973 |
Page Views: | 4,980 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | stuart H on Sep 24, 2013 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is one of my favorite slab climbs in YNP right next to Quicksilver and joins up with it at its fifth belay station. We did both Quicksilver and Freewheelin' for a nice Gr V day.
This area is known for rock fall, wear a coconut protector.
Pitch 1 is 5.7 & 165ft. If it feels runout, this is a good time to bail as it only gets harder. Start in a right facing book and face climb up to a bolt. Arch left into a short crack that leads to bolt anchors.
P2 is couple of 5.9 moves both crack and face. From the first bolt above belay ascend a crack to the right. As crack ends, leave it heading left and up to a bolt, faceclimbing to an alcove
Pitches 3,4, & 5 are 10b face
P3 starts with a short traverse right from belay, then head up towards the "crystals band" passing through its left edge to a bolt. At the next bolt traverse left to a bolt (10b)then to a crack and belay.
P4 Leave the crack going up to the right into a small crack. Leave top of this small crack, bolt, followed by 10b, then to belay bolts.
P5 Move left to bolt, then up to horizontal crack. Go up towards a couple of bolts then downclimb left(10b) to the base of a left facing book. This short book is then followed by a 5.9 face to bolt anchors.
P6 is 5.7, no pro, and we rap from here rather than continuing.
Rappel the route.
This area is known for rock fall, wear a coconut protector.
Pitch 1 is 5.7 & 165ft. If it feels runout, this is a good time to bail as it only gets harder. Start in a right facing book and face climb up to a bolt. Arch left into a short crack that leads to bolt anchors.
P2 is couple of 5.9 moves both crack and face. From the first bolt above belay ascend a crack to the right. As crack ends, leave it heading left and up to a bolt, faceclimbing to an alcove
Pitches 3,4, & 5 are 10b face
P3 starts with a short traverse right from belay, then head up towards the "crystals band" passing through its left edge to a bolt. At the next bolt traverse left to a bolt (10b)then to a crack and belay.
P4 Leave the crack going up to the right into a small crack. Leave top of this small crack, bolt, followed by 10b, then to belay bolts.
P5 Move left to bolt, then up to horizontal crack. Go up towards a couple of bolts then downclimb left(10b) to the base of a left facing book. This short book is then followed by a 5.9 face to bolt anchors.
P6 is 5.7, no pro, and we rap from here rather than continuing.
Rappel the route.
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