Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Frank Sacherer, Mark Powell (June 64)|
|Page Views:||3,390 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on May 18, 2012|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Approach: Park at a long pullout on the left side of the road below the Gunsight. Walk a short ways through the forest to find the horse trail then follow cairns up through the forest to the gully. Follow the talus all the way up to the bottom of the Gunsight. The first pitch of The Flakes climbs to the top of an obvious 200ft tall pedestal at the mouth of the Gunsight gully, on Middle Cathedral Rock.
Pitch 1 (5.7) Climb easy flakes and ledges leading up and left to join a large right-facing corner. Move around the arête of the corner onto the face and wander up dirty loose rock. Belay at the top of the pedestal, a full rope-length.
Pitch 2 (5.8) There are two crack systems angling off to the right of the pedestal. Start in the lower one to the right, then transfer to the left one. Follow this up changing cracks as necessary, then finally escape right at the end to belay at a small stance.
Pitch 3 (5.7) Climb up flakes then traverse left past a large block and more flakes to reach an offwidth crack. Climb the crack and belay at an awkward stance with tricky gear and a slung horn.
Pitch 4 (5.8) Clip a pin then make a thin traverse right across the face to reach a corner. Wild moves turn the corner around the arête and then fun climbing on featured rock up and to the right. At a broad ledge is a small pedestal. Climb the left side of the pedestal and belay on top at a piton.
Pitch 5 (5.8) Climb straight up to another broad ledge and traverse left a long ways to a right facing corner. Climb the corner to a piton then move right to another corner. Fun jamming leads to the top where you can traverse up and left past another piton. Belay hanging below a small ledge with a couple detached flakes sitting on it.
Pitch 6 (5.8+) From the right end of the ledge stand on a wobbly flake and make a long reach to a crimper. You can get some small nuts way off to the left which don't exactly protect the move but will at least keep you from F2'ing onto the anchor. Yard on the crimper to gain a jug and then move up and right around the corner to a big flake/OW. Improbable climbing leads straight up without too much difficulty and just enough pro. Belay at a large slanting ledge with crumbling orange rock and not much opportunity for an anchor.
Pitch 7 (5.2) Traverse right for a ways and then work up on slanting ledges.
Pitch 8 (5.3) More traversing and then climbing up more slanting ledges/ramps heading up and right. There is a random bolted anchor along the way (belongs to some other new route Id assume). Belay at a large forested ledge and un-rope. 3rd class scrambling leads to the right and then off.
Descent: Work your way down off the west side of Middle Cathedral and follow a climbers trail through the bushes to the top of the Gunsight. Descend the Gunsight with lots of Class 2/3 scrambling and a few rappels. There are often fixed ropes at the rappels.