Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Peter Barton, Eric Schoen, George Meyers, Bob Ashworth 1974
Page Views: 2,788 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


78 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Single pitch route that is an excellent warm up for the other routes at the base. Climbs a nice dihedral right of the start of Paradise Lost, and left of the DNB. Invloves finger locks, laybacks and stemming. Watch out for some polished feet during the crux. Gear is solid.

Location

As above, start right of Paradise lost in an obvious dihedral and follow the crack to a bolted anchor. Single 60m rope will get you down.

Protection

Standard rack; nuts and cams from 3/8 " size to 2.5"

Photos

Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
 
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
 
Not bad if you are in the area.... very slick in spots. Easy to top rope after someone tops out.
Watch for rockfall around the base of Middle. Feb 4, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
I'll second Russ' warning on rock fall. Good idea to leave your helmet on in this area. Oct 7, 2007
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Great pro from what I remember, short crux. Not a bad first .10 lead in the valley May 3, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Excellent climb. Two cruxes... one right at the bottom and then the layback. Great gear. I didn't place anything larger than a #2 camalot. Oct 15, 2011