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Routes in Middle Cathedral Rock

Ants Are Fat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bircheff-Williams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monogamish T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slip on Slime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall, George Meyers, Vern Clevenger (1973)
Page Views: 2,542 total, 39/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 22, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is an excellent and bold face climb up the center of the North Face Apron. I've only done a couple other 5.9R climbs in the Valley like Marginal and Goodrich Right, but Quicksilver is considerably harder and more serious than either of those. But if you are very solid at the grade this is a route well worth doing. It's also the most moderate route up the NF Apron, with all the other multipitch routes being 5.10-5.11 and with equally frightening runouts. Most of the bolts on the climb are bomber with a couple slightly older 3/8".

The first pitch climbs a large ramp/gully which starts out 3rd class and becomes 5th class at an indistinct point. This is a long pitch but it is best to just rope up on the ground and have your belayer start simul-climbing once you hit the end of the rope. Near the end of the pitch you move out of the gully/corner and onto the face to the left. Here you will encounter a 5.8 crux which is protected by a new piton. Above is a good stance with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 is the crux and my partner did a fine job leading this one. From the belay climb straight up to a small gear placement, then make a traverse right across a dike to reach an old piton. From here climb up past a bolt and continuing on to a small roof. There is no pro at the roof and some tricky moves must be made here to move over to the left. Further up and left some small gear can be had behind some flakes. Easier but still heady climbing leads up past a second bolt to the anchor.

For pitch 3 traverse up and left to a corner where you can get some gear. The corner is a little hollow sounding and partly detached. Climb up and past a roof which is actually a hanging block. The gear behind this roof/block is unlikely to hold a fall, and a fall on gear placed behind it could potentially dislodge it which would be disastrous for everyone involved. Climb runout angling up and right to a high first bolt. Then climb straight up on cool knobby rock to a second bolt. At the second bolt traverse right to reach another bolted anchor.

Pitch 4 continues traversing to the right along an easy ramp to the first bolt. Then difficult friction leads further right and then up a shallow corner to a second bolt just above the roof. Pull the roof which is actually pretty burly (a change of pace from the rest of this low angle climb) and continue up to a bolted anchor.

I think this is the end of Quicksilver, but we climbed one more pitch up Freewheelin'. For this pitch climb up easy terrain to the right of the belay. There is some good gear placements and then a 5.7 bulge to the right of a bush. At the ledge traverse left and mantel to another bolted rap anchor.

To descend rappel Freewheelin' with two ropes. It is possible to retreat from the anchors of any pitch on this climb. For the first two pitches you would rappel the route. At the p3 anchor you would either rap the route or Walk of Life. I'm pretty sure two ropes are needed to rappel any of these descent routes.

Protection

A variety of small pieces including micro cams and small wires, plus maybe 3 cams in the 1-3" range for the first pitch.

Photos

Led P2 in 1992, followed P2 and P3 in 2002. In both cases, the leader of P2 was too flummoxed to do any further leading! Devious and runout climbing more suited to the 5.11 slab climber than the budding 5.9 leader. Jul 7, 2013
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The North Face Apron of MCR is probably my favorite area for low angle face climbing in Yosemite Valley. The rock is as high quality and clean as North Dome or the GPA, but with much more interesting features. There's dishes, knobs, edges, slopers, and there's grey frictiony rock, splotches of polished orange rock, bands of white rock, it's kind of got everything. The climbing is much more varied and memorable than just smear,smear,smear...

It's also one of the best places to get your slab on in summer. It's in a bit of a recess in addition to being north facing and gets generous shade in the morning. In the middle of the day the sun dances along the base, but you can remain in the shadow of the steep headwalls if you are a few pitches up the slab. After maybe 5pm the whole area falls back into the shadow of Lower Cathedral Rock. Jun 22, 2012