Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Steed and Clint Cummins (Aug, '08)
Page Views: 329 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 19, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a newer route, and the best protected on the Apron. Begin a little ways to the right of the big dihedral which Quicksilver ascends.

Pitch 1 (10a): Follow the obvious line of closely spaced bolts and then move left to a bolted anchor at the bottom of a big right-facing flake. Cruxes at the first and last bolts. 150 ft.

Pitch 2 (5.8): Climb the flake, mostly liebacking. Belay at bolted anchor at a stance just before the flake turns to an undercling roof. 100 ft.

Pitch 3 (5.10b): Undercling out the flake, staying low. Then climb up until you reach a bolt at the top of the flake. Make a crux traverse to the left, then easy terrain up past one more bolt to join Walk of Life at the top of its second pitch. Make sure to extend your gear on this pitch. 100 ft.

The second and third pitches can be linked with a 60m rope. There will be bad rope drag at the crux, but you'll probably have rope drag regardless.

Rappel the route with two ropes. You could maybe get down with one 70m if you wanted to downclimb some of the lower easy terrain on Quicksilver.

Protection

Pro to 3" and several quickdraws.

Photos

master gumby  
 
This was a pretty fun climb, edging smears, crimps, laybacking, traverses, etc.. however I thought the first pitch was a bit heads up. 6 bolts protect ~150 feet of climbing - do the math. There are several 30 foot run-outs, however, I will say the bolts are where you want them just don't expect this to be a sport route. Also thought the Crux on pitch one to be the traverse to the 5th bolt. Oct 12, 2018