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Routes in Middle Cathedral Rock

Ants Are Fat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bircheff-Williams T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monogamish T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slip on Slime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 220 ft
FA: Heidi Pesterfield and Brian Bennett (1986)
Page Views: 327 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route is characterized by a great first-half with perfect rock, followed by a runout and wandering second-half with some loose/shattered rock. Overall this is one of the lesser quality routes on the Middle Cathedral Apron.

On the right side of the Apron, locate the 3rd class pedestal/"hump" that Orange Peel and Exodus begin off of. Tapestry begins up the smooth slab just to the right of this. Climbing to the first bolt is the crux. Luckily it's not too high by Apron standards, but you could still wreck your ankles if you fall here. After the first bolt follow a left facing rail/mini-corner until you can traverse over right and access easier terrain. The topo shows a second bolt somewhere on this pitch, but we couldn't find it.

About 80ft up you'll find a two bolt anchor. Belay here, or keep climbing if you have a 70m rope. You'll see another bolt above you, after that you begin wandering to the right, passing a piton hammered into a small shelf. One of the main difficulties of this route is just finding the anchor. It's above some right-facing scoops and shelves which make it difficult to see until you get up under it.

There's some 5.6 terrain on both the first and second pitches where you'll probably die if you blow it, but overall I think this one is a bit easier than Quicksilver.

Protection

Bolts, and some micro-cams for supplemental pro up high. Maybe bring a nut tool to dig out the cracks.

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