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Routes in Middle Cathedral Rock

Ants Are Fat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bircheff-Williams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monogamish T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slip on Slime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 1700 ft, 17 pitches, Grade V
FA: FA: Yvon Chouinard & Steve Roper, 6/62 FFA: Frank Sacherer & Eric Beck, 1965
Page Views: 11,709 total, 87/month
Shared By: andrew kulmatiski on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Hard to squeeze more climbing in a day. The first pitch sets the stage - the 5.7 chimney is umm, not fast climbing. The 3rd pitch crux is, umm, difficult, but bolt protected. The 4th pitch includes some 5.9 R climbing, but from there on out route finding and moving quickly are the major difficulties. Spectacular views of the captain, plenty of company with all the swallows. I don't know why anyone would complain about this route.

Don't just take my word for it- Bill Wright had this to say:

"The crux 5.10b pitch, which is quite difficult, is one of the easiest pitches on the route. It has a runout section, but it doesn't take long to lead and it is easy to get past the mantle on aid. As for the rest, You can count the fixed pro on one hand. The belays are marginal. Every pitch is runout, some grossly. Route finding is difficult on a number of pitches and especially the start of the descent. There are offwidths or squeeze chimneys on the 1st, 10th, 11th, and 14th thru 17th pitches. The 17th pitch is the crux, then either the devious 12th pitch or super sandbag 10th pitch."

But, hey, if it were easy it wouldn't be an accomplishment.

P1 - difficult 5.7 chimney. There is apparently a 5.8 option on the pillar to the right of the chimney.
P2 - up nice ramp to right
P3 - move right up ramp, then lt to bolts at mantle in blank face continue up poorly protected face climbing to the left.
P4- poorly protected face climbing.
P5- move right up under a roof - I've heard several people say the undercling traverse out of this roof is just as difficult as the P3 crux.
P6 - wander up poorly protected face left of arete.
P7 - downclimb then up runout 5.7 face
P8- 50' traverse right
P9- continue moving right avoiding a large (30') loose block (if it is still there)
P10-11 - move up large flare
P12-14- flare turns to cracks and chimneys
P15- 5.6 slot huh? Consensus seems to 5.8 chimney
P16-17 - progressively hard and steep chimney climbing.

The route is often rapped from the top of the 5th or 6th pitch - you'll have to leave gear to rap from above the 6th pitch. I think many parties have the intention of finishing but the grades belie the difficulties on the route.

Give yourself some extra time to get across the Kat walk in the daylight. It is not recommended to cross this in the dark. To traverse the Kat walk climb UP 50-100' from the top of the route then beginning traversing down and left on a slabby ledge system. Traversing immediately left from the top of the route will leave you stuck above a bowl. I remained roped up for this section. Once across the face move up for a pitch and through the shrubbery until you find rap stations that head down the gully.

Location

The route starts on the right edge of Middle Cathedral rock at a 1p chimney.

Protection

Pro to #3, bolt at the crux. Sketchy descent across the Kat walk.
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
When I did this with my partner Paul Horak in 1976, it had the reputation of being the longest, hardest free climb in the Valley (Astro Man soon took over that title) ... knowing what I was getting into, I wonder if I would have gone on it ... wisely, we planned on 2 days with a bivouac on the Powell-Reed ledges halfway ... hand-hauled a small knapsack packed with a 2-man bivvy shell, water & flannel shirts ... nice bivvy looking at El Cap over our feet, but ran out of water on the 2nd day ... endless dirty chimneys, runouts, ant trees - this route had it all ... I wound up slurping water off a slab at the top teeming with silverfish ... Cat Walk was hard to find but the waterfall was welcome ... glad to have done but would not do it again ... see scan of our original topo for an impressionist (early) take on the route ... Jun 2, 2017
Tony L
  5.10 PG13
Tony L  
  5.10 PG13
This is a fantastic line. If this route were anywhere else it would be the destination route for the area. The climb has more of a "scary" rep than it deserves.

I first did the DNB when I as 17. I thought it was all supposed to be 5.9, not knowing any better - there was no internet to tell you what you're in for. To make things more interesting we brought a haul bag and single port-a-ledge, got started at 3PM, and bivied! Actually we bivied twice! And we ran out of water. This is what teenagers did in the 90's. No sane individual should ever do this.

The Catwalk descent s really involved and not somewhere to be at night if you've never done it before (tired and dehydrated). Bring a headlamp and a warm layer. If you're not moving fast enough, you can snooze at P13 (small, narrow ledges). You can also snooze on top (but I've never done that).

On another trip up this, we got hit by a storm around P9. We had one rope. The OW crack my partner was seconding up turned into a fire hose. As it turns out, you can escape off Powell Reid Ledges and work your way up to more-or-less the top of East Buttress.

You could also take Paradise Lost up, and then link into this climb, avoiding all the 5.10 pitches of this route, and doing the fun! 5.10a pitch on Paradise Lost.

In many respects I felt this was easier than the North Buttress (a sandbag), and far more enjoyable overall (no thrashing through trees).

Would recommend a #4 for the wide stuff on the 2nd half of the climb. You're more tired then. Apr 14, 2017
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The pitch 3 crux is a sandbag, it's more like 5.10d, but you've got a bolt right in front of you. The 5.9 runout off the belay on pitch 7 is the mental crux. There's a piton down below which you can clip to keep from falling on the belay, but it's still run and then you have rope drag for the rest of the pitch. If you skip the pin and manage your gear well, you can link 7, 8, and 9 all together. Oct 20, 2014
stuart.h
Redwood City
stuart.h   Redwood City
FA: Yvon Chouinard & Steve Roper, 6/62
FFA: Frank Sacherer & Eric Beck, 1965 Sep 25, 2013
Jeffrey Dopp
Goodlettsville, TN
Jeffrey Dopp   Goodlettsville, TN
Great route! Pro and go to get the catwalk before dark. Apr 3, 2013
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.10a PG13
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.10a PG13
Had to bail off P5 due to time constraints. Feb 28, 2011
Consider climbing the North Buttress (using George's excellent description!) to familiarize yourself with the Kat Walk descent if you're at all uncertain of your ability to complete this route in daylight- that one goes a lot faster. With climbers above, I wouldn't hang out at the base of Middle Rock in the evening if you paid me...that sh#t is loose! Oct 12, 2008
andrew kulmatiski
logan, ut
 
andrew kulmatiski   logan, ut
 
I've heard that there has been quite a bit of rock fall since I went up this route. Any new beta would be appreciated, I'd like to get up there again. I remember a number of large loose blocks and flakes around the 11th and 12th pitches. Jun 30, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Exercise great care setting your belays on this route. In 2001, Tom Dunwiddie and Monika Eldridge of Colorado were about 10 pitches up this route, and one of them (probably) took a fall which ripped out all their gear and the belay anchor. Nobody knows exactly what happened, they were found still roped together at the base of the rock.

I climbed Scenic Cruise behind Monika and another partner. Not only was she a very experienced trad climber, she was also one of the nicest people you'll ever meet. I had conversed with Tom via email although we never met in person. Jun 5, 2007