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Areas in The Gallery

Far Side 1 / 58 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 59
Fish Wall 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Incredible Hulk Boulder, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lou Ferrigno Boulder 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Menses Prow 4 / 48 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 50
Mural Wall 0 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Zoo at the Far Side, The 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Elevation: 6,600 ft
GPS: 38.619, -105.237 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 90,666 total, 439/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Visible to the west of the Sand Gulch Campground is the Gallery consisting of three walls:

1) The Far Side is the southern (left) side of the canyon facing NE
2) The Menses Prow is the central south facing buttress, and
3) The Mural Wall on the right side facing west, and the Fish Wall at its left end.

The Menses Prow includes the prow proper as well as the Bulge Wall around the corner. Both this area and the Mural Wall have high concentrations of quality routes on good rock. Ratings run from 5.7 to 5.13, most routes in the 10-12 range. There are scattered routes on the Far Side including sections further to the North called the Pitts and the Dungeon. Just downhill from here are a couple of short steep routes on the Incredible Hulk Boulder. You can find morning shade on Mural Wall and Bulge Wall and afternoon shade at the Far Side.

Getting There

There are two options. The first and best option is to park at the Sand Gulch campground, and follow an excellent trail that begins between campsites #9 and #10. Follow this trail for 2 minutes downhill to a wash, cross the wash and arrive at the old Gallery parking area. The other alternative is to drive to this parking area. From Shelf Road, turn left on the road to the Sand Gulch campground. After 30 yds the road makes a sharp bend right, and a less-defined dirt road heads off straight/left. Follow this 4WD road for several hundred yards to the unmarked P-Lot. Super not recommended.

From the Parking Lot, a well-maintained trail heads NW toward the cliffs. The Trail parallels a barbed-wire fence for the first bit. Well-signed trails diverge towards the Far Side, Mural Wall, and finally the Menses Prow. A left at the first fork leads to the Far Side. Staying right will lead to another fork, where a right turn leads to the Mural Wall/Fish Wall and the left fork heads to the Menses Prow. 20-30 Minute Approach.

175 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gallery

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Period Piece
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Blood
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Baroque Period
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dog
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Block Party
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anguish and Fear
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pueblo Gringos
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Cruiser Meloncrimp
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Big Chill
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Menses
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flashback To Acid Beach
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Fungus
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Passion for Fashion
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thirteen Engines
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Period Piece Menses Prow 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
First Blood Menses Prow 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Baroque Period Menses Prow 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Red Dog Menses Prow 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Block Party Mural Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Anguish and Fear Mural Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pueblo Gringos Menses Prow 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Lick My Love Pump aka Love… Menses Prow 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
John Cruiser Meloncrimp Mural Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Big Chill Menses Prow 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Menses Menses Prow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Flashback To Acid Beach Menses Prow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Slender Fungus Menses Prow 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
No Passion for Fashion Menses Prow 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Thirteen Engines Menses Prow 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Gallery »

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Photos

Jason Parks
Colorado Springs, CO
Jason Parks   Colorado Springs, CO
28 Sept 2013: May have dropped my wedding ring (white gold with 5 sapphires) and another ring (titanium with silver inlay) out the Trail to Menses Prow. Any booty finders, please contact me so I can get out of the doghouse. Oct 4, 2013
A reminder to watch for loose rock, even with as much traffic as this area gets. This weekend on Menses Prow, a loose block was pulled off and broke a belayer's leg, requiring a stretcher and helicopter flight out of the canyon. Be careful! May 14, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Anyone know the name of the route two lines to the right of B.O.S.S. Method? I believe that Dumb Waiter ascends the inside arete (dark, with a bulge near the top riddled with four-finger pockets) just right and across the chimney from Method. The one I'm asking about is the outside, blunt arete a yard or so right of this, where the trail bends at a gnarled tree. About six bolts, a brief, thin crack half way up, small black roof just before the anchors... Jan 21, 2004
Tracy - I've never heard a name for it. I think Knapp's book lists it as "Unknown - 5.9+" but I'm not sure. For lack of a better name, my parties have always referred to it as "Plumber's Crack." Who knows, maybe we should post it that way and then it'll stick... Jun 3, 2003
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
What is the name of the route on the California Pinnacle facing the trail? I don't see it listed here or in any of the guide books. It's a bolted line, approx 75-80', felt like it was about 10a ish, give or take. Jan 27, 2003
CLR
CLR  
In 1995, I soloed up the west side of the South East Arete, of the California Pinnacle (it was just like soloing the last pitch of The Flame).... When I got the the top, I wrapped a rope -10 ft. down and drilled two climbs: *The one on the East side (of the South East Arete) is called Red Dog *The one one the North West side of the California Pinnacle is called Tucker's Faith. Then I hiked to the top of Bat Crack and tryed to clean it, but there were too many bats and the sun was going down. So I lowered the anchors, left the Bosch, and returned the next day to finish it with Jason. This was two weeks before I fell off - above skyline - of DoRDi, and stopped that dirty shi.... Dec 30, 2002
Mense's Prow/Bluge wall has what is probably the highest concentration of moderate routes in Shelf Road. Where as the other walls in the area might have one or 2 routes under 5.10, this wall has at least half a dozen. Probably the best bet for intermediate leaders in the area. Apr 8, 2002

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