Type: Sport
FA: Carrie & Bob Robertson
Page Views: 2,404 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


134 Opinions

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Description

This is just right of Menses. It is not quite as clean or nice as that line, but it is still a fun, bolted, layback crack line. Follow the bolted crack until the bolts move left onto the face.

Protection

7 bolts up to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
My first outdoor lead! Good climb. Seemed hard as hell at the time, but I'm sure it really ain't too bad. Nerves got the best of me being my first lead. Dec 8, 2003
Relatively good climbing with poor bolt placement... the bolts imply a face climb while the moves imply a crack climb, likely an attempt by the FA party to affoid controversy involved with bolting a crack - ? Oct 18, 2004
TBlom  
we did this route once sticking to the face , and once in the crack. I think the crack is overall steeper/more pumpy, but the face is more thin. The upper just follows the crack pretty much, but I remember great pockets higher up. Oct 18, 2004
TBlom  
P.S. you can also jam the crack insead of laybacking. Oct 18, 2004
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
The bolt placement was fine, if you place bolts to the right more the rock isn't as good. I would rather reach to clip than fall on a bad bolt. Mar 5, 2008
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
The bolts require some traversing from the crack to clip, but it's definitely the crack you want to climb. Apr 13, 2008
Kenan
  5.10c
Kenan  
  5.10c
I've climbed this a couple of times, and while it's a good route, I have to agree with the bolt line being too far left. The crack is clearly the natural line here, and the bolt line is far enough left to make it feel awkward staying in the crack. I felt constantly pulled out of the crack towards face moves farther left in order to move back to the bolt line. Perhaps the FA party was trying to offer 2 variations with a single bolt line? Or perhaps as Amato said they were trying to avoid controversy by bolting the crack? It would be interesting to hear from the FA party.... Not sure if I agree with the comment about the rock quality being too bad to bolt a bit farther right. This isn't a huge safety issue, just strange enough to make it feel awkward. Oct 10, 2012
manleyk Manley
Broomfield, CO
 
manleyk Manley   Broomfield, CO
 
All true but fine, except that clip over the little roof. Sketchy. Getting over the roof was some work, but a really nice series of bouldering moves.

Also, some of the crack is now really greasy and polished. Oct 15, 2013
Angie M
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Angie M   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This route is awesome! Bolt placement is fine and the moves are great. Climb it! Nov 13, 2015
FA: Carrie & Bob Robertson. Nov 14, 2015
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
This was one of those "why" bolt lines!!! Just didn't make sense, almost like they wanted to originally walk the crack and then decided "F-That". Apr 10, 2016
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10c
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10c
Top anchors replaced 4/23/16 with ASCA stainless steel bolts/hangers, plus quicklinks and rings. Please consider donating to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org/. Apr 25, 2016