Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian Mullins, Charles Walters, 1988
Page Views: 659 total · 24/month
Shared By: David Champion on Nov 5, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

It is hard to believe a route of this vintage and quality has eluded the database until now. Expect old-school on this route: hardware, bolt-spacing, and grade, although 11d seems right on. This is almost as good as Lats.

Employ right heel-hooking and/or high-stepping to gain the crucial second bolt. Once clipped, the potential for a big fall exists, but you will not hit the ground. Reload the guns at the huge, right-facing flake about mid-pitch. Traverse right and then up, sequentially, on sharp pockets to a big hole followed by a bigger jug. Take a deep breath, and clip a bolt. Cruise to the anchor.

Location

Walking west along the trail toward the far right margin of the Far Side Wall, look for a partially hidden and slightly overhanging wall. Take a faint trail uphill toward this wall, then down into a hole where begins the route, and its neighbor to the right, Like a Horse.

If you reach the leaning block of Abracadabra, you've gone too far.

Protection

8 bolts plus a two-shut anchor.

Photos

Awesome route. Definite groundfall potential getting to second bolt. Apr 9, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c PG13
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c PG13
Stick clip the high second bolt or be secure on 11- moves to stay safe on the low section. Sep 23, 2018