Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian Mullins, Charles Walters, 1988
Page Views: 1,100 total · 25/month
Shared By: David Champion on Nov 5, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

It is hard to believe a route of this vintage and quality has eluded the database until now. Expect old-school on this route: hardware, bolt-spacing, and grade, although 11d seems right on. This is almost as good as Lats.

Employ right heel-hooking and/or high-stepping to gain the crucial second bolt. Once clipped, the potential for a big fall exists, but you will not hit the ground. Reload the guns at the huge, right-facing flake about mid-pitch. Traverse right and then up, sequentially, on sharp pockets to a big hole followed by a bigger jug. Take a deep breath, and clip a bolt. Cruise to the anchor.

Location

Walking west along the trail toward the far right margin of the Far Side Wall, look for a partially hidden and slightly overhanging wall. Take a faint trail uphill toward this wall, then down into a hole where begins the route, and its neighbor to the right, Like a Horse.

If you reach the leaning block of Abracadabra, you've gone too far.

Protection

8 bolts plus a two-shut anchor.

Photos