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Routes in Far Side

5.6 Crack S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
666 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A.W.E.S.O.M.- O 4000 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Abracadabra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ahkenaten S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
An Unknown (aka Big Lizard In My Backyard) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Anselmo Power S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arblow Hard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arthur's Lip Service S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black is Beautiful S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blackshirts S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Centurion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chomping at the Bit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Coffee Bitch S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Creepy Ass Cracker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow's Nest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crush of Love, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cry of Love, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detachable Pillar Arete S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Worry, Baby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eh, Nice Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
El Lagarto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elvis is Everywhere S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exorcist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Facing the Animal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Far Side's Trad Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Class Tickets to The Resurrection S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakeus Maximus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying High Again S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hume's Horror S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I Can Smell Your Thoughts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iguana Breath S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Region of the Butterfly Pump S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Induction Oven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lizard King, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lizard of Oz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizzard With a View S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mardi Gras S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Me So Horny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mental Hopscotch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Ton Son S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Portable Airplane (aka Robbin' the Hood) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RAMMESES S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ragged Ass Tinkering Cow Thieves S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
SETI S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schindler's Pissed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shelfie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thick as Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Holes Make A Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
To the Max Von Sydow S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Many Notes, Your Majesty S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wedgie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Well Hung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wun Dum Fuk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Can't Handle The Truth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullens, 1988
Page Views: 123 total · 10/month
Shared By: Derek Young on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The description from Thompson guidebook, 2017... "this superb route starts in the Dragon's Lair behind a tree, a short distance right of the corner. Follow the line of bolts up a beautifully clean wall to anchors."

Location

It is at The Gallery, towards the end of Far Side in a cool setting. Go past the Well Hung amphitheater, up the scramble past Blackshirts, then go down into the pit. The left side wall is Chomping at the Bit, the left dihedral crack is Coffee Bitch - this is the line directly in front of the tree.

Protection

7 bolts with a bed frame hanger for #1 and newer hangers for the rest of the route. Don't be put off by the spacing. This is easy off the deck, but ya know, safety third.

Heads up: the anchors at the top have a bad setup. A rap is advised.

Photos

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Derek Young
Denver, CO
  5.11c
Derek Young   Denver, CO
  5.11c
My take: good route, just a touch wandering, and a bit contrived style to match the Shelf norm. Mega rest halfway up to the left (yes, practically on the 9) with crumblies to knock onto your belayer and a wack reachy bolt placement right. I must not have been following the "real" line. =)

And the top, last bolt after the horizontal, it gets weird and detracts from the 4star rating in the book... in my opinion... I don't know. Go right or go left, but direct seems way above the grade in the book (and not worth it). In my beta burn - I wound up LH into pocket, bust right to crimp at shoulder height. Match. LF on horizontal ledge. Then work right foot up on the choss edges, RH to side pull crimp, and go LH above head to disc with a half pad crimp on top. Traverse the choss spikey lip back left.

Did a hold break??? Oct 22, 2017

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