Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullens, 1988
Page Views: 135 total · 10/month
Shared By: Derek Young on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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The description from Thompson guidebook, 2017... "this superb route starts in the Dragon's Lair behind a tree, a short distance right of the corner. Follow the line of bolts up a beautifully clean wall to anchors."


It is at The Gallery, towards the end of Far Side in a cool setting. Go past the Well Hung amphitheater, up the scramble past Blackshirts, then go down into the pit. The left side wall is Chomping at the Bit, the left dihedral crack is Coffee Bitch - this is the line directly in front of the tree.


7 bolts with a bed frame hanger for #1 and newer hangers for the rest of the route. Don't be put off by the spacing. This is easy off the deck, but ya know, safety third.

Heads up: the anchors at the top have a bad setup. A rap is advised.


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Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
My take: good route, just a touch wandering, and a bit contrived style to match the Shelf norm. Mega rest halfway up to the left (yes, practically on the 9) with crumblies to knock onto your belayer and a wack reachy bolt placement right. I must not have been following the "real" line. =)

And the top, last bolt after the horizontal, it gets weird and detracts from the 4star rating in the book... in my opinion... I don't know. Go right or go left, but direct seems way above the grade in the book (and not worth it). In my beta burn - I wound up LH into pocket, bust right to crimp at shoulder height. Match. LF on horizontal ledge. Then work right foot up on the choss edges, RH to side pull crimp, and go LH above head to disc with a half pad crimp on top. Traverse the choss spikey lip back left.

Did a hold break??? Oct 22, 2017