All Locations > Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Gallery > Far Side

Chomping at the Bit

Name: Chomping at the Bit
Rating: 3.3

5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British

Routes in Far Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.6 Crack S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	666 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	A.W.E.S.O.M.- O 4000 S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Abracadabra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ahkenaten S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Anselmo Power S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Arblow Hard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Arthur's Lip Service S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Big Lizard In My Backyard S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Black is Beautiful S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Blackshirts S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Centurion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chomping at the Bit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Coffee Bitch S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Creepy Ass Cracker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crow's Nest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crush of Love, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cry of Love, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Detachable Pillar Arete S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Diamarrhia Fullenkrap S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Don't Worry, Baby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Eh, Nice Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	El Lagarto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Elvis is Everywhere S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Exorcist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Facing the Animal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Far Side \| 3842 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Far Side's Trad Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	First Class Tickets to The Resurrection S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Flakeus Maximus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flakeus Minimus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flight of the Monarch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flight of the Monarch (to be deleted) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flying High Again S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Get Your Wings S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gila S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hume's Horror S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	I Can Smell Your Thoughts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Iguana Breath S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	In the Region of the Butterfly Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Induction Oven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Kidz Bop Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lizard King, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lizard of Oz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lizard With a View S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lord of the Warlocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mardi Gras S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mary Iguana S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mental Hopscotch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Not For Girly Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	One Ton Son S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pack Mule S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Party Hardy Tardy Marty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Portable Airplane (aka Robbin' the Hood) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ragged Ass Tinkering Cow Thieves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	RAMMESES S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	S.L.I.M.F.A.S.T. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Schindler's Pissed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	SETI S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Shelfie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	So Emotional S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sympathy For The Devil S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Thick as Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Three Holes Make A Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	To the Max Von Sydow S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Too Many Notes, Your Majesty S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tunnel Vision S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Unknown 5.7 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown 5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown 7 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Velociraptor S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Wedgie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Well Hung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Wir Sind Die Größten S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	You Can't Handle The Truth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	38.6187, -105.2377
FA:	Darryl Roth?
Page Views:	3,067 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Mike Anderson on Dec 31, 2004
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route is located in the "Far Side" area, directly across from the Bulge Wall of Menses Prow. It is a bit out of the way for Shelf...nice and secluded. The route starts in a pit that stays nice and cool. The climbing is very straightforward and easy (5.10ish) until you reach a brutal crux boulder problem at a distinct bulge. Some tenuous moves on almost non-existant holds get you over the bulge, then the climbing eases to the chains.

This route is probably easier when it's cold. The crux relies a lot on skin friction on some sharp holds, so the warmer the weather, the softer your skin will be.

I thought the moves were easy off the hang, but linking them proved harder than I first expected due to increasingly sore fingertips with each attempt. This was rated 13b in Van Horn's books, the new Sharp End book calls it 13a, which I think is about right.