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Routes in Far Side

5.6 Crack S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
666 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A.W.E.S.O.M.- O 4000 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Abracadabra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ahkenaten S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
An Unknown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Anselmo Power S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arblow Hard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arthur's Lip Service S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black is Beautiful S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blackshirts S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Centurion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chomping at the Bit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Coffee Bitch S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Creepy Ass Cracker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow's Nest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crush of Love, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cry of Love, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detachable Pillar Arete S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Worry Baby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eh, Nice Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
El Lagarto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elvis is Everywhere S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exorcist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Facing the Animal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Far Side's Trad Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Class Tickets to The Resurrection S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakeus Maximus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying High Again S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hume's Horror S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Can Smell Your Thoughts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iguana Breath S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Region of the Butterfly Pump S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Induction Oven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lizard King, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lizard of Oz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizzard With a View S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Me So Horny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mental Hopscotch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Ton Son S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Portable Airplane (aka Robbin' the Hood) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RAMMESES S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ragged Ass Tinkering Cow Thieves S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Robbin the Hood S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
SETI S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schindler's Pissed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shelfie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thick as Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Holes Make A Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
To the Max Von Sydow S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Many Notes, Your Majesty S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wedgie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Well Hung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wun Dum Fuk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Can't Handle The Truth S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darryl Roth?
Page Views: 1,316 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is located in the "Far Side" area, directly across from the Bulge Wall of Menses Prow. It is a bit out of the way for Shelf...nice and secluded. The route starts in a pit that stays nice and cool. The climbing is very straightforward and easy (5.10ish) until you reach a brutal crux boulder problem at a distinct bulge. Some tenuous moves on almost non-existant holds get you over the bulge, then the climbing eases to the chains.

This route is probably easier when it's cold. The crux relies a lot on skin friction on some sharp holds, so the warmer the weather, the softer your skin will be.

I thought the moves were easy off the hang, but linking them proved harder than I first expected due to increasingly sore fingertips with each attempt. This was rated 13b in Van Horn's books, the new Sharp End book calls it 13a, which I think is about right.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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This thing repelled me for quite a while, then I found a way to set up into the crux, and launch up. I fired so high that I went three inches above the hold....
I got humbled pretty seriously later on. I heard that Colin Lanz onsighted it and downgraded it to .12b or c.

About grammatically correct... I'm neither politically or grammatically correct when it comes to route names, but my original intention was that it be "Chomping" not "Chompin'". Dec 1, 2010
DJ RYNO
chatfield lake ,co
DJ RYNO   chatfield lake ,co
Great thin fun!!!
Expect on red hanger for anchor. Can TR from Abracadabra if needed. Sep 24, 2009
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
Out of my jurisdiction (both geographically and ability-wise)... not going to get involved. Jul 9, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
It should be noted that the name of the route is possibly grammatically incorrect. Jul 9, 2009
Yeah, this route is probably safe to call temperature dependent. I climbed it one freezing winter day in about 15 minutes and it didn't feel that bad. We ran up the hill from the Mutant Boulder and the base was covered with snow and we felt like we were in an ice box for sure. Because it was too cold to rest, I tried it several times in a row and sent in about 15 minutes. It's a short toughie that any boulderer will love. Jul 9, 2009
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I tried to do this route on a warm day, and the move felt impossible. Sep 8, 2007