Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darryl Roth?
Page Views: 1,563 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This route is located in the "Far Side" area, directly across from the Bulge Wall of Menses Prow. It is a bit out of the way for Shelf...nice and secluded. The route starts in a pit that stays nice and cool. The climbing is very straightforward and easy (5.10ish) until you reach a brutal crux boulder problem at a distinct bulge. Some tenuous moves on almost non-existant holds get you over the bulge, then the climbing eases to the chains.

This route is probably easier when it's cold. The crux relies a lot on skin friction on some sharp holds, so the warmer the weather, the softer your skin will be.

I thought the moves were easy off the hang, but linking them proved harder than I first expected due to increasingly sore fingertips with each attempt. This was rated 13b in Van Horn's books, the new Sharp End book calls it 13a, which I think is about right.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I tried to do this route on a warm day, and the move felt impossible. Sep 8, 2007
Ian Spencer-Green
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ian Spencer-Green   Fort Collins, CO
 
Yeah, this route is probably safe to call temperature dependent. I climbed it one freezing winter day in about 15 minutes and it didn't feel that bad. We ran up the hill from the Mutant Boulder and the base was covered with snow and we felt like we were in an ice box for sure. Because it was too cold to rest, I tried it several times in a row and sent in about 15 minutes. It's a short toughie that any boulderer will love. Jul 9, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
It should be noted that the name of the route is possibly grammatically incorrect. Jul 9, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Out of my jurisdiction (both geographically and ability-wise)... not going to get involved. Jul 9, 2009
DJ RYNO
chatfield lake ,co
DJ RYNO   chatfield lake ,co
Great thin fun!!!
Expect on red hanger for anchor. Can TR from Abracadabra if needed. Sep 24, 2009
This thing repelled me for quite a while, then I found a way to set up into the crux, and launch up. I fired so high that I went three inches above the hold....
I got humbled pretty seriously later on. I heard that Colin Lanz onsighted it and downgraded it to .12b or c.

About grammatically correct... I'm neither politically or grammatically correct when it comes to route names, but my original intention was that it be "Chomping" not "Chompin'". Dec 1, 2010