Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Mark Van Horn et al., 1988, re-equipped by Michael and Rachel McGee, 2015
Page Views: 1,589 total · 14/month
Shared By: MJM on Mar 25, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The 1st submission's description:

Climb the short crack past C1 to a stance. Gain the big pocketed face past C2 through C5.

Continue on steepening rock on good reachy holds to C6. There is bulgy rock on good but reachy and hard to locate holds past C7. An exciting finish to the reachy anchors awaits you.

Per Aaron Brown: begin in the lower corner underneath the arete to the right of Creepy Ass Cracker. The first bolt is just out of reach from standing on the ground. You can easily walk around the ledge and clip the first bolt without a stickclip.

Eds. This is a combination of 2 submissions of the same route onto the 1st submission's page to avoid duplication and confusion.

Location Suggest change

The first submission's location:

Start just right of Creepy Ass Cracker.

Per Aaron Brown: it is in the Dragon's Lair near the big, right-leaning pillar/cave system. The belay is in a small corner.

Protection & Vitals Suggest change

7 clips to chained anchors.

This is a shady, north-facing route.

This route is also known in previous guidebooks as "Flight of the Monarch." FA: Mark Van Horn.

When we first spotted this route in 1997, this route was an old school route with 2 bolts. A runout of 30 feet off the deck to C1 and two slinged anchors. So we thought originally that the person that bolted this abandoned it and #2 - that some one would be seriously injured on this mixed/sport route.

We spent two days on this route cleaning and bolting it to put it into its current state. We hope you enjoy our hard work to up date this well outdated climb.

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